In the beginning, Surfers Learn to Pop Up on Foam Waves. They learn the concept of timing and rhythm. Surfing looks very smooth in the films and beginners often make it look very difficult because they do not go through the steps in sync.
i give new surf students a count I urge them to memorize and say out loud in the water as they go through the steps. If the student does not focus on the sequence, they default to their instincts. Their instincts are all wrong. Until they focus on the sequence and forget their instincts, they have difficulty.
Their is a Sequence to Follow
The sequence is catch the wave, place hands on the board in a man’s push up position, push up, bring a foot under the butt and place it flat on the board, stand and lift the hands off the board to make room for bringing up the other foot and placing it near the nose of the board. The count I give students is paddle, stop and glide, push up, back foot, stand up, front foot.
The final stance should like a person pushing a tall box. Hands are in front, hips and shoulders square to the front, feet 3′ apart, weight equal on front and back leg, and knees flexed. If the student lands the correct stance and stays so his weight is equal on both sides of the middle stringer, the board will go straight to the beach and the surfer does not have to do anything.
Avoiding the Wrong Stance
What students want to avoid is the snowboard stance. This is one arm trailing. This puts the butt over one rail and weight on the heels of the board. This causes the board to turn over. Surfers want to be square to the front and feel their feet. Their feet will correct the course of the board if starts to carve right or left.
Catching the Right Foam Wave
Catching the wave requires timing. The surfer looks for a good foam wave that is foam straight across. When it is 20′ away, they roll over on the board and paddle easy three times. When it is about to hit the board, they paddle hard three times to get in front of the wave. When they feel it take off, they put their hands on the board. Beginners are often too impatient and are jumping up before the wave arrives or before they have caught the wave.
Students improve fast when they slow down. I suggest when they put their hands on the board which the count says is stop and glide, that they glide for 3 or 4 seconds before trying to stand up. This always creates remarkable improvement and the essence of timing and rhythm.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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