In these days of endless chaos many feel it difficult to feel calm, but Do Surfers Have More Gratitude? Gratitude is one of the most fulfilling emotions we can experience and it is possible to feel it every day.
When you live at the beach, you see surfers in the water all day from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.. The ocean is free and accessible. Everyday is different. The weather most days is different. The swell direction, size of tide, and wind vary constantly. Regardless of the surf reports, the ocean doesn’t always act predictably.
Surfers Visit the Ocean Everyday if They Can
Visiting to surf may result in elation or disappointment as the surfer gazes at the waves. You see surfers summarizing what they see and deciding whether to go in or not. I learned a long time ago to just go and not look first. What ever is there will be what I experience. We don’t have that experience with most things and especially at work. We usually know what awaits us and the routine can sometimes make life boring.
That is just the start. Surfers often go in when the waves are poor because they say they just “want to get wet”. That means they want to commune with Nature. There is an elation with the one on one experience. In surfing there is no supervision, no judgement and no limits. It is a white canvas waiting for the painter. You have the freedom to do what ever appeals to you. No phones, no time limits, no surf police. Total freedom.
Finding Out Who You Are and Why You Are Here
Surfing can be a real test of who you are. Extreme athletes risk death for the feelings. Cotter, a famous free solo rock climber said he does not climb to get on top of rocks but for the feelings he experiences. All extreme athletes are adrenaline junkies for the feelings. But they are not reckless. They prepare as much or more than any professional athlete. Their lives are on the line. They test their limits. They get into “flow” where the bliss resides.
In “flow”, the prefrontal cortex shuts down (our critic and judgement center). The actor does not think. Their brain and body work together faster than thought to produce the effect. Lots of people get into flow. Speakers, musicians, athletes, teachers, writers, painters, and surgeons. Flow is reaching peak performance by abandoning all inhibitions and facing a challenge that might be just a little more than you can do.
Imagine having all these experiences before you go to work every day, or after work, or on the weekends. Life is blissful and surfers live for these moments. They have gratitude that they have the physical capabilities to engage and the time opportunity. Their day is made with the experience. They become and identify with being a surfer because it is so expressive of who they are. Many people have these experiences in their work or play, but if you don’t, surfing could be an outlet for you.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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