When beginners are learning to surf they might wonder Should You Be a Short Board or Long Board Surfer. Both are great and appropriate for the right people. The long board which starts at 9′ is more forgiving and easier for the occasional surfer. The short board requires dedication at the beginning and is for the super fit.
Kids and teens want to be short board surfers because that is what their peers ride, it is cool and “in”, and they have the physical ability to learn. Adults who used to ride short boards and who are not physically fit and agile might prefer a more high volume board. The value of volume (length x width x thickness) is it makes a board easier to paddle, easier to catch waves, and easier to ride.
Beginners Start on High Volume Soft Tops
I start all beginners on high volume foam boards that are more than ample for their weight. At 100 pounds, they ride an 8′ soft top and over 110 pounds usually a 9′ soft top. I have a few higher volume 9′ boards for people over 185 pounds. When learning, especially, the surfer does not want the board to be a problem in flotation or forgiveness. It takes a while to perfect the pop up and correct stance.
Once students begin, they find out how fit they are and their ability to learn. Some are fit and learn well and are advancing in their first lesson. Others don’t learn as well and are not as fit and need more lessons to get the idea. The latter group will most likely stick with high volume boards and if they ever want a hard board will go with at least 9′. The first group can move to shorter foam boards and then shorter hard boards if they can surf frequently.
The First Steps to Lower Volume Surf Boards
The first step down from a 9′ soft top should be an 8′ soft top. If the surfer has learned to execute the pop up and land in the perfect stance the 8′ is a good move. With an 8′ soft top they can ride real waves and do the basic maneuvers of bottom turns, cut backs and accelerating. If they move through those competently they might want a hard board. The first hard board can be 8′ or a little shorter at 7’6″ with a good width of 21″+ and thickness of 2 3/4″. This could be a good life time board.
The idea is to have fun. Catch and ride a lot of waves. Have a high enough volume board that you don’t get tired for at least an hour. Paddling is the tiring part of surfing and the higher volume board makes it easier. Once the volume drops, the surfer needs more strength and stamina to paddle. Paddling stamina disappears fast. If a surfer doesn’t surfer for a few weeks, he notices his stamina and timing are off.
Once surfers begin, they can build their physicality out of the water to improve their surfing. Surfers need strength, flexibility, and stamina. Push ups, squats and dead lifts are the three best exercises. Aerobics are necessary for stamina. Losing weight for most improves agility and reduces the amount of power necessary to get the body to a standing position .
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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