New surfers are often attracted to surfing because what they saw in the movies were advanced surfers on short boards. Once they learn to surf, the Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board begins. Riding the short board is an advanced stage of surf technique, skill, physical conditioning, and courage.
The fundamentals learned by beginners on soft tops riding foam waves are important steps for advancing to the surfing short board. The surfer is learning how to time waves, then how to time their pop up, and then how to land in the correct stance to ride straight to the beach. In this process the surfer is learning if they have the techniques, strength, flexibility, stamina, and courage to advance.
Learning the Basics in Surf Lessons
In Oceanside surf lessons, I give students a count to say out loud as they process through the sequence of catching waves and popping up. Students who say the count out loud advance quicker. This is because beginners are intimidated by the ocean, nervous about the process, and rely on their instincts. Their instincts are wrong and cannot be relied upon.
The process I teach for the beginner pop up is to paddle, put their hands on the board next to their chest, push up, bring a foot under their butt and place it flat on the board, then stand on it raising their hands and bringing the other foot near the nose of the board. It is a simple process that relies more on the strength of the rear leg for the pop up than the process used by advanced surfers.
Learning Timing and Rhythm
The beginner learns the pop up as they also learn to time the incoming wave and select the right waves to ride. They learn how to get in the right stance or they fall off the board. The body must be squared to the front with the weight equal on both sides of the middle stringer. Most beginners want to ride with their butt over the rail and an arm trailing like on a snowboard or skateboard.
As the surfer advances they paddle out through the foam waves and catch bigger ones as they begin to look for small real waves. Riding their first real waves, surfers get scared as there is more speed and the board is pointed down the face. Of course, they pearl (nose underwater followed by face slam) often and this creates a fear all surfers experience. Now advancing to bigger real waves includes the fear of pearling.
Techniques for Catching Waves
Three techniques the surfer learns for catching real waves are riding down the face, catching the wave and pointing toward the pocket before popping up, and catching waves after they have peaked and are rolling out. Catching waves at the corners is a good way to feel big waves without being at the apex (where foam first comes over lip.
Then begins the process of learning carves and maneuvers. The surfer learns to bottom turn into the pocket off the face. He learns to accelerate for speed so he can perform maneuvers. Accelerating is not necessary on soft tops, but it is fun to learn and practice for short boards. The surfer learns to cut back to return to the power of the wave as it starts to die.
Moving to the Hard Board
At this point a surfer can consider a hard board. He should start with a fun board that is 7’6″ long, 21+” wide and at least 2 3/4″ thick. He should master small wave catching and new maneuvers before moving to a shorter board. The next board should only be 6″ shorter and maintain the width and thickness. When he reaches 6’10”, he is officially riding a short board.
It is good to move slowly so as not to lose the stoke by making it too complicated. Each move to smaller volume creates harder paddling, more arc needed in the wave, and trickier to ride. Surfers who can’t visit the water often may be content riding the fun board. While riding the fun board the surfer can be building strength, learning technique, and building courage. He should be proud of advancing this far.
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