The progress of surfing the short board begins with the Surfing Carves to Learn. Surfers begin on a soft top and in Oceanside, I start beginners with their first carves while riding foam waves. Most of the beginner techniques are carried through advanced surfing.
Riding foam waves to the beach, I have students start influencing the direction with the first principal of carving. They move their eyes toward the direction of the carve and then their head and upper torso. Then they apply a little pressure to their toes or heels, whichever is on the side of the carve. It is important not to lean into the carve because at a slow speed with thick rails, they will fall off if they do.
Learning the Carves in Real Waves
In real waves the bottom turn carve off the face into the pocket is executed the same way. On a short board with thin rails and moving fast, the surfer can lean into the carve to dig the rail and execute a sharper turn. On a backside carve into the pocket, the surfer is leaning into the rail to keep it in the face of the wave.
The first carve or maneuver after turning into the pocket is accelerating for speed. The surfer pushes the nose of the surf board up and down the face with his front foot. After a few pumps, the surfer is ready to rip the lip or execute a cut back.
The cut back is the next basic carve to learn. The surfer reverses direction by turning his eyes down the face and rotating his upper torso toward the bottom of the wave and torquing toes or feet whichever is on the bottom side. He reverses to get back to the power of the wave, for style or to stall for a barrel.
Ripping the lip is a favorite for surfers to practice. Riding the pocket, the surfer bottom turns up the face of the wave and then does a cut back at the top to spray the lip as he reverses direction and heads back down the wave. This can lead to flying over the lip to perform a 360 or a reverse 360 or any other aerials.
The surfer can perform the first three on a soft top and only advanced surfers can get a soft top to a 360, but it can be done.
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