The Difference Between Riding Foam and Real Waves requires a big step in performance that can be learned in small bites. It is about improving techniques and timing.
Foam waves can be seen from a distance and you only have to get between them and the beach to catch them. The best technique if standing in waist deep water is to roll over on the surfboard when the wave is 20 feet away and start paddling for momentum. Then look to the side to see when the wave will hit the board. Then paddle three or four times hard until the board takes off in front of the wave. More strength requires fewer paddles. In all, there should only be about six paddles; three before the wave arrives and three after the wave arrives.
Real Waves Require Better Timing
Catching real waves requires better timing. The wave can be seen forming and the surfer must get in front of it so it can roll under the board. Usually surfers sit so they can paddle in to catch them. The line up is a good indication of where they are breaking but surfers can be observed sitting closer in or further out depending on their own techniques and surf board types.
After learning how to surf foam waves, the beginner can paddle out to catch bigger foam waves. He paddles out and turns around to catch the wave. Paddling will be similar as before. Then, I suggest surfers paddle out and make an arc so as the wave is coming in they can watch it until the last moment when they turn back toward the beach to catch it. This leads to a nice transition of catching small real waves and catching corners.
Catching the First Small Real Waves
The small real wave doesn’t have much push. They often are reformed waves after the original has broken out further. While paddling in an arc, the surfer is looking for good foam waves or small real waves. The small real wave might take a lot of paddling to get in front and into the push. Catching a corner is a great way to start. After the foam comes over the lip (the apex), it will roll right or left forming the pocket. The surfer can watch for the apex and then paddle at a 45 degree angle toward the beach so the pocket will roll under him. The angle will prevent pearling.
After riding small waves, the surfer can paddle out a little further to where the line up sits and look for a turn catching bigger waves. Important to observe etiquette. The surfer closest to the apex or on the wave before you, has the right of way and you need to back off. Experienced surfers will try to catch the wave at the apex so they have a right of way or if they want to come your way, they will sit so they will be on the wave before it reaches you.
Winning in the Line Up
The surfer who starts paddling early when a real wave is forming is notifying the other surfers he wants the wave. If they judge he is in good position to catch it, they will give it to him. If some think he is out of position and they are in better position, they will also paddle for the wave. Most of the time surfers are courteous if you also allow them to catch waves. If you are paddling out, the surfer riding the wave has the right of way over the surfer paddling. They can usually miss you, but you should do everything possible to get out of their way.
Before the surfer begins to progress, they should have the pop up and ride to the beach mastered. If you can’t pop up or fall off the board right away or can’t time waves, you need more instructions. Have fun.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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