Beginner surfers are often inspired to surf from movies but after they start they wonder How Beginner Surfers Get to Short Boards. Call it a long apprenticeship that takes normally about 2 years if you can surf a two to three times a week.
Why does it take so long? Is it worth it? Two good questions. It takes so long because surfing is far more technical than anyone expects and far more tiring than anyone expects. Surfing is fun and one has to examine their goals and willingness to make surfing a central part of their life. Getting to a short board is not a week end warrior type of endeavor.
Learning the Technical Process
The technical process begins with mastering catching waves, popping up, and riding to the beach in foam waves on a soft top board. It is important to get the fundamentals precise because flaws in technique or form are magnified as foam and then real waves get bigger. I start most teens and adults on a 9′ soft top and they love it. It is a big move just to ride an 8′ soft top because they are so much less forgiving. A short board starts at 6’10” and is very unstable if you haven’t worked your way down slowly.
The physical conditioning process is serious for all but a few well conditioned lean beginners. These few are usually soccer players or triathletes, or those who participate in a lot of physical activities. Not only is conditioning important, but coordination, agility, and the ability of the body to learn what the brain is learning.
Living Near the Beach is Almost a Requirement
Kids and teens who live near the beach can get to short boards easily as a function of how much time they can dedicate. They are loose, active, coordinated, and learn well. They generally have a lot of courage which is required to take on bigger waves and enjoy getting worked.
Adults and those not as well conditioned or lean might favor longer high volume boards once they get past the learning stage. The advantage of high volume boards is they are easy to paddle, catch waves easily, and are easier to ride. They don’t need the wave timing and quick pop up required with short boards. They don’t require the athleticism, agility, and superior strength required by short boards.
Progressing to Shorter Boards
After learning to ride foam waves close to the beach, the beginner surfer can start to paddle out to catch bigger foam waves and then small real waves. The timing of catching waves changes dramatically and tests the beginners competence in the fundamentals. After advancing in real waves, the surfer learns the basic maneuvers of bottom turns, cut backs, and accelerating. At this point, he can consider moving to a hard board. He should only move down 6″ at a time in length maintaining the 21″ + in width and 2 3/4″ in thickness.
The advantage of shorter boards is the ability to dig the rails for sharper carves and accelerate for greater speed. Not everyone needs this excitement, but those who do will need the discipline and dedication to practice.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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