How to Surf Real Waves is a question that will enter a surfer’s mind as he progresses from riding foam waves. The new surf student progresses from riding foam waves to the beach to paddling out to ride bigger foam waves. Then he should begin to look for small real (green) waves.
The surfer must overcome a few psychological challenges. Real waves move faster and the board is pointed down when catching them. This results in many pearls (nose under water) which the surfer starts to fear. There is also a big pick up in speed which the surfer also fears.
The Basics of Catching Real or Green Waves
The foam waves hits the back of the surfboard and the surfer paddles hard just before that impact to get in front of the wave. On a real wave the surfer allows the wave to come under the surfboard or he paddles to get in front of it as it is arcing. The wave is moving fast as it is unstable as it arcs and wants to fall. When the tail of the surfboard is rising, the surfer has to paddle hard three times to get the board started down.
Waves vary in the shape they break. On a reef, there might be a gentle build up without a lot of arc. This is easier to catch. On a sandbar beach like in Oceanside, the waves are steep and the angle down is steep. On a steep wave with the beginner’s 8′ or 9′ soft top board, it is easy to drop the nose into the bottom of the trough.
Beginners might start with catching small two or three foot waves or search for the corners. At the corner, the wave has been unfurling and forming the pocket surfers ride. The surfer is already paddling and knows where these corners are forming. Then he paddles at a 45 degree angle to the beach and allows the pocket to roll under him. Then he paddles hard and catches the wave while he is heading at a 45 degree angle to the beach. This prevents pearling.
On bigger waves, the surfers on close out waves often allow the wave to come under the board, catch the wave, and then before doing the pop up, push the nose toward the pocket. Now on the pop up, the board is heading toward the pocket and not down. Reduces the chances of pearling.
To ride the board down the face, the surfer allows the wave to roll under him and then performs the pop up. At the bottom, the surfer performs a bottom turn which carves into the pocket. This can be performed on soft top boards if the wave isn’t too steep and small. The bigger the wave, the more time the surfer has to ride the face and then carve into the pocket.
The one thing needed in this phase is more courage. There will be a new level of crashes and the surfer has to accept this or he will lose the nerve to advance.
Read a good book to get ready.
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Get the Learn to Surf Guide Course in Kindle, Paperback or Audio
A great 29 page course on the fundamentals of catching waves, doing beginner and advanced pop ups, riding real waves, how to do maneuvers on real waves, which surfboards to ride, and how to progress. Great for lesson preparation, after lesson review, or learning on your own.
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Get Fit to Surf
A great guide to strength, flexibility, stamina, and leanness for surfing. Beginner strategies for getting stronger, more flexible, stronger cardiovascular system, and nutrition to lose weight. An improving surfer or one who wants to prepare must meet the whole body physical demands of surfing. Getting stronger improves ones ability to perform better.
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Description:
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Description:
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