When to Move to Shorter Surf Boards

Mark
September 22, 2020
4:26 pm

When to move to shorter surfboards is a question new surfers should take seriously. The ideal for all surfers is maximum fun. Moving to shorter boards too soon introduces frustration. Long time surfers often move to longer boards as they age to prolong the fun.

The issue with moving shorter is that it decreases the volume of the board. The volume is the length x width x thickness. Decreasing volume has advantages for the advancing surfer and big disadvantages for those moving too soon.

What is the Value of Volume?

Volume is fun for the beginner. It means waves are easy to catch and ride. It means the board is easier to paddle. 90% of surfing is paddling. It means the board is more stable for the pop up. As volume decreases all these categories become more challenging.

This is why it is best to take on the challenges slowly. By moving from an 8′ foam board to a 7’6″ hard board maintaining width and thickness, the surfer gets better performance without a major need for advanced skills or stamina. The smaller a board gets, the less time the surfer can paddle. The smaller a board gets, the more arc the surfer needs in the wave for launch power. The smaller a board gets, the less stable it is for the pop up.

The advantage first recognized by the lower volume board is you can finally duck dive a wave to make paddling outside easier. The board is going to ride down the face of a wave easier without pearling. The board can be accelerated in the pocket. The board will perform all maneuvers and tricks easier.

So we measure the advantages and disadvantages and decide when we are ready to make the move. There is also nothing wrong with going longer on a surf board. You can paddle forever, waves can be caught early before they reach peak arc, and the ride is very stable.

A surfer should master all the techniques on a soft top board including catching real waves, accelerating, and doing the basic maneuvers of bottom turn and cut back before going smaller. More time spent on a higher volume board makes the transition easier and more successful.

After all, we are in it for the stoke, not the frustration.

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