Catching Real Surf Waves
Catching real surf waves is the next step after mastering foam waves. The fundamentals learned on foam waves are paddling the surfboard in a wave, popping up into the right posture, and riding to the beach easily.
The Fundamentals for Foam and Real Waves
The same fundamentals are used for riding real waves, but the timing is different. On foam waves, assuming a soft top board, the surfer paddles before the wave arrives and then hard when the wave touches the board. In a real wave which arcs above the board, the surfer paddles hard three times and pops up.
The secret of catching a real wave is it has to be arced and above the surfers head before he paddles. This takes position before the wave arrives, allowing the wave to roll under the surfboard and courage.
Positioning for Real Surf Waves
The line up of other surfers is a good indication of where the waves are breaking for positioning. The surfers who start paddling first are indicating they want the wave. Right of way goes to the surfer closest to the apex where the foam first appears over the lip. Surfers usually take turns.
Beginners should start with catching waves at the corners, catching small faces or waves that have reformed on the inside, or the smaller waves that often follow the big ones. Waves are caught riding down the face or toward the pocket. Riding towards the pocket can reduce pearling.
Catch a Corner
To catch a corner, surfers are paddling for momentum where the waves are breaking. He watches where the wave forms and lets it break and start rolling right or left. The surfer paddles close to the rolling pocket and aims at a 45 degree angle towards the beach as the wave rolls under his board.
This is a good strategy when waves are breaking too big and steep or when beginners are not prepared to drop into a steep wave. A second technique is to start catching the wave down the face by paddling and then before popping up, turn the nose of the board towards the pocket. This avoids pearling and gets the surfer into the pocket quicker.
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