Surfing helps you deal with fear because fear needs to be managed. All professional surfers have talked about their fear in continuing to ride bigger waves. You don’t need to rid yourself of fear, you need to learn management.
Fear and Courage in Surfing
Fear and courage run together. Courage is the willingness to face your fears. Each time a surfer wants to ride bigger waves, they have to deal with the thought that they can get wrecked. An 8′ wave carries a lot of weight and is faster than a 6′ wave.
Preparation is the first tenet of facing challenges. Facing challenges requires risk. There is always an element of possible failure with any challenge or it wouldn’t be a challenge. The value of taking risks is growing who you are.
Facing Fear Outside the Water
In work, relationships, learning, and goal setting there is always risk. To change anything is a risk that requires courage of some degree. People actually become addicted to challenge. To an extreme we call them “adrenaline junkies”. Entrepreneurs are addicted to facing risks so they can express themselves.
When you face a challenge, risk, fear in surfing, you can learn to prepare and hopefully win. It creates confidence and some self-esteem. When the next life challenge appears, you know how you feel in going through the experience and how you can succeed if you focus.
Fear is the thought that the obstacle is a little more capable than you are. When you start breaking fear into smaller parts and take them a little at a time, they become more manageable.
Fear and Riding Big Waves
In learning to ride big waves, I first had to learn how to escape. So I practiced my bottom turns so I could go over the top if the wave started to close out. Then I had to master letting the wave come under my board so I was already on the face as it peaked. I also had to have a great pop up that never failed. As I put the pieces together, I could face each element that I would encounter.
This easily transfers to other challenges in life. Each challenge has elements that may scare us. We have to analyze the necessities for success and prepare for each one. At the end, there is a need to let go and realize that all contingencies can’t be foreseen. This is where we need courage.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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The Surfers Life
Why do surfers surf? What is it about the culture that attracts and holds millions of people in the world? Why is the culture growing and how has it infiltrated our world with clothing, music, fitness, and stoke?
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Build Immunity in this Covid Era
The new Omicron variants can often sidestep the anti-bodies in vaccinations. This is when we need to have a strong immunity system. This is when people with underlying conditions like obesity or chronic metabolic disorders like diabetes become vulnerable.
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