Beginner Surfers Catch Real Waves

Mark
September 16, 2020
1:33 pm

Beginner surfers catch real waves after they have learned the fundamentals on foam waves. So many kids are taken by their surfer friends on their first experience out to the line up on short boards to catch real waves. They have no idea of the techniques or the timing.

That is the purpose of starting on a high volume foam board riding foam waves and learning the techniques and timing. Timing and rhythm are the hidden secret of catching and riding waves.

The Fundamentals on Foam Waves

When a foam wave arrives, the surfer rolls over onto the surf board and begins to paddle to get momentum. Then when the wave is close, he paddles hard to get in front of the wave. Once the wave has the board, the surfer places his hands on the board and executes a pop up.

This is the same with foam waves and real waves. The advantage of a foam wave is it is not moving as fast, not steep causing a board to pearl, and not heavy causing a real wipe out when the surfer falls. The surfer learns to judge a good wave, get moving before it arrives, and paddle hard just before it hits the board.

Timing a Real Wave

The surfer wants the wave to roll under the board and when the board is at the top pointing down, the surfer paddles hard three times and pops up. If waves are steep, the surfer often points the board toward the pocket before popping up so it doesn’t go straight down the face and pearl. (nose under water)

A very easy way to catch real waves for beginners is to catch the corners. This is the spot where the wave is unfolding far from the apex (where the foam first comes over the lip). The surfer aims at a 45 degree angle towards the beach and once again allows the wave to roll under the board. The surfer paddles hard three times and pops up. The surfer will be riding at that 45 degree angle as the wave gets closer to the beach and the surfer could wind up right on the sand.

Learn the basics on foam waves and then try to mix bigger foam waves with smaller real waves.

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