Learning to Ride Foam Waves in Oceanside is the start to riding the real waves. The beach break in Oceanside is great for learning because it gives two long foam rides. One is good for beginners and the other is good for advancing surfers.
Foam waves form after the outside real waves break. On a good learning beach, the foam wave rolls for a long time. Beginners get in shallow water and roll over onto the surfboard in waist deep water to ride to the beach. Advancing surfers paddle out through the inside waves to bigger waves for longer rides.
The Beginner Starts Close to the Beach
The beginner in waist deep water waits for the wave to roll within 15 feet and then rolls over on the surfboard and paddles easy to get momentum. He looks to the side to see when the wave is going to hit the board and then paddles hard for three or four strokes to get in front of the wave. This has to be a fast half swim stroke paddle up to the elbows to get quick power and charge in front of the wave. Beginners could also kick for more push.
When the wave is pushing the surfboard after three to four fast strokes, the surfer can put his hands on the board in a man’s pushup position next to his rib cage. The surfer has to be patient to be sure he is on the wave, be sure the board is level, that he is going straight, and that his hands are next to his rib cage. Then he can push to begin the standup process.
Beginner Surfers Learn to Slow the Process
Most beginners rush the above process because they are anxious they don’t have enough time to stand up. The only place where time is moving fast is in their head. There is plenty of time to catch a wave and execute a smooth process that includes all the steps. The additional steps for beginners after putting their hands on the board is pushing up, then putting one foot flat on the board three feet from the tail under their butt, standing up on it and releasing their hands from the board. As the surfer is rising, he has cleared way to place the front foot in front of the body near the nose of the board.
If the surfer does not stand on that rear foot and lift his hands, he cannot move his front foot to the nose of the board. This causes falls in many ways. Most beginners want to hold on until both feet are on the board and this is where their instincts lead them astray. The hands must come off the board. Many are afraid to stand up and are thinking and evaluating whether it is a good time. This is also a mistake. The surfer must move through the steps smoothly but steadily.
Riding Bigger Waves
Once the surfer is riding straight to the beach, he can start paddling out to bigger foam waves. After a few days of this practice, he can start looking for small real waves. The process for catching small real waves is the same. The surfer sees the wave forming and paddles to get in front of it. The wave will lift the tail of the board and the surfer must get on the wave before putting his hands on the board. Then he executes his pop up and rides to the beach.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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