Beginner Surfers Learn the Fundamentals that are the same techniques they will use as advanced surfers. The fundamentals don’t change as surfers progress from riding foam waves to riding real waves.
There are several techniques the beginner surfer must learn to progress. There is also fundamental fitness necessary to execute the techniques. Being overweight is a hindrance to learning to surf because most people have lost their strength and flexibility in the process of gaining weight and they can no longer lift their bodies off the surfboard. Surfers also need some stamina because surfing is very tiring.
Timing and Rhythm
Surfing is timing and rhythm. The beginner, in waist deep water with a soft top board, rolls over onto the soft top as the foam wave approaches 20 feet away. He paddles to get the board moving and looks to the side to see when the foam wave will reach the board. As it is three feet away he paddles hard to get the board accelerated in front of the wave. He will feel the board take off. At this point he can put his hands on the board. It will a similar timing process with real waves.
The surfer must put his hands in a man’s push up position next to his rib cage while remaining lying on the board. Most beginner surfers want to put their hands in front of their shoulders in an already pushed up position after paddling. This is a dead end. They turn the board over, push the nose down to pearl, can’t get their back foot under their body to stand and now with their head in front of their toes, fly off the front of the board.
All this is corrected by putting your hands in the right spot after paddling. It is exactly the same for catching real waves It is necessary to learn this step to advance. From here, the surfer now pushes up and places a foot forward 2′ to 3′ from the tail flat on the board under his butt. With the foot flat, the surfer can stand on it and then release his hands from the board to rise and put the other foot forward to the nose. On a real wave the advanced surfer pushes up and then pops both feet into position at the same time.
Getting the Right Riding Stance
The surfer must land in the correct stance on the surfboard. The board is designed to be sensitive to weight. If the weight is not in the proper place the board will carve radically or flip over. The surfer must land the right stand to advance in surfing. As boards get smaller, the stance has to be more perfect. The surfer is on the board with feet shoulder width apart. His weight is equal over both legs with an upright torso. Hips and shoulders are squared to the front. This places the weight equal on both sides of the middle stringer. Hands have to be in front where the surfer can see them.
The biggest hindrance to the stance is realized by snowboarders and skateboarders in that they like to board with one shoulder slightly back toward the rear and trail an arm. On a surfboard, this turns the butt off the center line and places it over one rail (side) and the one arm is trailing. This causes the surfer to fall off the butt side of the board. You see intermediate surfers falling in real waves because they get into this type of stance.
The soft top will ride straight to the beach with no work required if the stance is correct. From this point, the surfer can start paddling out for bigger foam waves and then real waves.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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