Learn to Surf in the First Oceanside Lesson with the proper fundamentals. Surfing is about timing and rhythm and the first lesson shows beginners the timing and rhythm of a sequence.
The surfing sequence from catching a wave to riding looks seamless in a movie. Beginners without lessons have great difficulty with the timing. They are anxious and rush through the process too fast. They do this even after a dry land surf lesson. One of the first steps to learning is when the student says it works better when I slow down.
Slow Down to Perfect the Pop Up
Slowing down is getting into the timing and rhythm. The surfer first spots a good foam wave coming to the beach. He is in waist deep water with a soft top board.He rolls over board and begins to paddle when the wave is 20′ away. He looks to the side to see when the wave will hit the board and then paddles hard. The board takes off in the wave. This is the first item of patience needed by the new surfer.
After the board takes off and the nose is about to come level to the water, he puts his hands in a man’s push up position. The rhythm is to hold this position for a few seconds as the surfer gathers his poise. This may be the most crucial step. Most beginners want to throw their hands in front of their shoulders and pop up immediately. This results in a fall.
Stop and Glide is Crucial to the Pop Up Timing
After pausing a few seconds in what I call the “stop and glide” position, the surfer can push up. The objective is to get the front foot close to the nose and the body in the correct stance. As the surfer pushes up, he puts a foot (right or left) under his butt flat on the board. He stands on that foot to release his hands from the board. Releasing the hands allows the body to go upright and the front foot to reach the board in front of the body. It should be on the middle stringer at a 45 degree angle forward.
As the surfer rises, he has hips and shoulders squared to the beach as though he were pushing a tall box. The correct stance allows the board to go straight and balance is very easy. This is a process of technique and timing to arrive in the correct posture.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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