Most people grow up exposed to surfing in movies, clothing culture, vacations, or live near the beach. They may find out Why Does Surfing Attract Enthusiasts. Surfing can affect your senses on many layers.
People working inside all year frequently dream of a little free time laying on white sands looking at dreamy clear blue water. They think about wading into the warmth and feeling of the full body immersion into a bath. Subconsciously, we know we were first alive in a warm saline solution ensconsed in the safety of our mother’s womb. In times of emotional trouble, going into the ocean is soothing and comforting.
On a different level, we see the ocean as a powerful force of Nature. It can vary from a body of water that barely ripples onto the beach to a mighty force that can break ships in half, topple oil derricks, and destroy coastal towns. In a more structured form, it is a beautiful sculpture that can tower a hundred feet in the air and fall poetically creating a wave that man has learned he can ride.
It All Started with Carved Out Trees
The first riders used 100 pound carved tree trunks to harness the big waves of Hawaii. Like in all things man endeavors, the art of making these wave catching craft evolved to the point we now can surf on light shaped wisps of fiberglass that can be maneuvered like in a dance. We can take our pick of whether we want the ultimate thrills or the finesse of the ballet.
There is no limit and there is ultimate choice and freedom. What do you want to do? What are the feelings you want’? Ask a surfer what he likes and you can get a lot of different answers. On days when there are hardly waves, surfers are sitting on their boards soaking up the sun and enjoying their immersion into the ocean’s comfort.
On days when the waves are huge, there will be surfers entering the water with their “guns”, special boards for riding big waves, and testing their skill against Mother Nature’s power. They know that ill fate or mistakes can result in being crushed by thousands of pounds of angry water. There are few deaths is surfing, but it is always a possibility when you ride the big ones.
Surfing Offers You Choices
Surfers who ride the smaller ones know they have choice. Do they want to test their mortality or are they content just challenging their skills? Surfing is a full body sport and it requires strength, flexibility, and stamina. It requires techniques. It rewards the skilled with fantastic experiences surfers love to talk about over a beer.
Just entering the water with a surfboard opens the whole dynamic of what you want it to be. Do you just want to feel comfortable in the ocean? Do you want to test your skills and have fun? Do you want to find out who you are by pushing all your limits? Anyone entering the surf culture can enjoy and appreciate all there is to enjoy whether it is a recreation or a calling.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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The Surfers Life
Why do surfers surf? What is it about the culture that attracts and holds millions of people in the world? Why is the culture growing and how has it infiltrated our world with clothing, music, fitness, and stoke?
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