Beginner Surfers Can Transition from Foam Waves to Real Waves. They can begin this process after they have mastered riding foam waves to the beach.
The important fundamentals beginner surfers learn are to catch foam waves and learn the timing of spotting the right wave, rolling over on the soft top in waist deep water, catching the wave, popping up, and riding to the sand without falling. This is the basis of a first surf lesson.
Time to Catch Real Waves
After learning to ride to the beach, the surfer can paddle out to catch bigger foam waves. He learns to turn around as the wave approaches and then catch it. Now he isn’t standing but paddling. After this he can begin patrolling for real waves.
I have students paddle out and do a 90 degree turn while waiting for the next foam wave and then do another 90 degree turn toward the beach as the wave approaches. Then I change their paddling routine as they want to look for real waves. This is best on sand bar beaches where the real wave forms on the outside and then reforms into smaller real waves near the beach as it mixes in with foam waves.
Real waves only arc for a few seconds and the surfer has to be in the right spot to allow it to ride under the board. As it arcs above his head, he paddles hard down the face and then pops up. I have the beginner paddle parallel to the waves so he is moving. When he sees the small bump of the real wave form, he paddles toward it, parallel to it, or in a little to get the board in front of the wave as it arcs.
Start with Small Real Waves and Progress Slowly
The small real wave of 2′ to 3′ has very little push. The surfer may have to paddle longer and harder than catching foam waves which hit hard. In a real wave, the surfer doesn’t have to let the wave hit square in the back like with a foam wave. He can angle 45 degrees toward the beach and get into the pocket right away if it stays open. The real wave won’t toss the board as it hits the tail at an angle if it is not too steep or closing out too fast.
The surfer learns to patrol and catch small real waves and pockets before looking for bigger real waves in the 3′ to 4′ size range. Move slowly as there will be lots of pearling and waves crashing on top of the surfer from poor timing and unlearned techniques.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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