Surfers Need Fitness and Courage to Progress because both are necessary when beginning to ride real waves. The beginner stays close to the beach and rides easy foam waves. Once he paddles out, he starts to feel the power of the ocean.
When paddling out to real waves, it doesn’t take long to get in the impact zone of real waves breaking. This comes from not being able to time or just being in the way of breaking waves. When a 7′ wave landed on me once and I was underwater for a while, I knew I had no control of getting to the surface. I thought when Mother Nature releases me, I will rise.
More Strength Needed
It also takes more strength to paddle out catch waves and paddle out again. Getting wrecked a few times falling off waves takes out some energy. Having enough energy gives one confidence. Surfing often is the best way to become comfortable in the ocean and build the muscle and stamina.
Surfing is about rhythm and timing. There is timing to catch the wave and pop up. You are able to predict how waves are going to break and judge how to catch them. This sense gets more keen with more time in the water. The first things surfers notice when absent from the water for a while are the timing and the stamina.
Courage Necessary for Bigger Waves
Riding bigger waves in excess of 5′ requires a lot of courage because the waves are getting heavier and moving faster. The impact zone is worse and falling off a wave is worse. There are only so many crashes and hits a surfer wants to take in any one session. On big days in Oceanside when the waves are 8′ to 10′ there are fewer surfers riding and more surfers watching. It is still fun to paddle out and get in the mix, but getting crushed takes some grit.
Pro surfers have said when they look back they were terrified each time they made a step to bigger waves. They eventually get to the point where on contest days there might be 20′ waves. Some times they are still terrified on these days but they learn to manage their fear. That is what surfing is about. You may never be over the fear but you learn to manage it.
Most surfers enjoy riding waves in the 4′ to 6′ range where short boards are good and waves are manageable. In places like Hawaii where waves can get over 20′ and are heavier there is a different mind set and surfers who started when they were 7 years old. Find your sweet spot and be content in getting out to have fun.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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