Learning to Surf Small Real Waves follows mastering the foam wave ride to the beach and paddling out to catch bigger foam waves. Then it becomes time to mix catching bigger foam waves and small real waves.
On sand bar beaches like Oceanside, there is often a real wave mixed in with foam waves as the waves that broke out far reform inside. Many surfers love these waves. The beginner can begin either by riding down the face or catching them at the corners.
The Small Real Wave
A small real wave does not have the push as a good foam wave. That means that there is more paddling necessary to get into the wave. Three or four paddles should be enough to get in front of a good foam wave, but 8 to 10 paddles might be necessary to get in front of a small real wave because it rolls with little push.
A real wave apexes (foam first comes over the lip) and then rolls out to either side in a pocket. Surfers ride the pocket. As it rolls, a surfer can get into the pocket by paddling at a 45 degree angle to the beach parallel to the wave. The angle is necessary because the wave will keep getting closer to the beach. As it rolls under the board, the surfer executes his pop up and maintains the same angle to the beach.
Real Waves on the Outside
On the outside where waves are bigger, the same process can be followed. A bigger real wave has more power and once it rolls under the board only a few paddles are necessary to get down the face. A long board is in danger of pearling on steep real waves normally seen on sand bar beaches so surfers angle toward the pocket from the beginning.
The surfer can aim down the face and as the wave catches the board the surfer can then push the nose toward the pocket before popping up. Or the surfer can aim for the pocket before the wave catches the board. If the waves are steep, aiming toward the pocket may catch the surfer getting rolled right away. Aiming toward the corner from being further away from the apex may find a less steep angle in the wave as it rolls.
Surfers learn judgment to assess the wave and how his board can catch it best. Surfers spend the rest of their careers learning how to catch waves best. Pros say that getting down the face is the more challenging part and then riding the wave is more automatic.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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