Getting Off Early in Real Waves is important for timing. I mean in catching them and getting in front of dropping lip. Waiting too long and getting trapped by falling lip ruins the ride.
It can start with the timing in learning to catch foam waves. I find all beginners don’t understand hard paddling and how to paddle. Beginners want to take long swim strokes or hand paddle. Long boarders will often take long swim strokes to get rolling as a wave starts to build, but short boarders will take quick fast strokes to get into steep waves.
Training on Foam Waves
With foam waves, the surfer wants to paddle three fast strokes with the forearms and equal strength in right and left arms to keep the board going straight. In riding real waves, especially on sand bar bottoms with steeper waves, the surfer wants those tree fast paddles. As waves form slower like on many island reefs, the surfer starts earlier and paddles more than on steep sand bar breaks.
On a sand bar break like Oceanside, CA, the surfer lets the wave come under the board and as the nose starts down, paddles hard to catch the wave or its likely to flip him. On slow forming reef breaks, the short board surfer still needs the wave to come under the board and has to wait longer(get closer to the beach) than long board surfers. Long boarders can start paddling when the wave is still almost flat and get in front as it starts to peak. This puts him down the face as the wave starts to arc and he is already moving down the pocket.
Short Boards Need More Wave Arc
The short boarder needs to wait for the arc and so he often starts in the direction of the pocket eliminating the bottom turn or points the nose toward the pocket after catching the wave and before popping up. Beginners are often seen trying to catch the wave from behind and then if they do catch it, they fall straight down the face and nose dive. Or they start too late and the wave moves on without them.
Watch surfers on big waves paddling to catch waves or getting towed and they are most of the way down the face as the wave arcs and before it falls. They are moving in the pocket at the bottom of the face or if it is barreling, they are in the middle of the face but always wary of the wave collapsing. They need to be out of the barrel by then.
Surfers don’t want to be too far in front or the wave collapses on them placing them in the impact zone. This is where the timing is tricky. Starting with small waves to get the timing is wise before moving to larger waves. Its all about the timing.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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