Catching Surfing Waves on the Short Board is the end result of a great progression. In the process, the surfer has learned how to catch foam waves, perfected the pop up, become accustomed to the ocean, improved physical conditioning, and built courage.
Surfing is a full body sport and an adventurous sport that requires physicality, conditioning, learning, and bravado. Once a surfer begins catching real waves, they usually want to progress to bigger waves to find their fear threshold. One famous surfer said we don’t measure waves in feet, we measure them in increments of fear. He was talking about his crowd which surfed up to 100′ waves. Well Laird Hamilton did, anyway and the rest of them decided where they drew the line.
Mastering the Foam Waves First
The beginner learns to time foam waves. The foam wave remains foam for a long time as it travels to the beach. The real wave forms in a few seconds and then it becomes unstable and crashes. Some waves on reefs roll nicely giving surfers a lot of time and not very steep faces. Some rise to great heights and break creating barrels. Sand bar breaks usually are steep and close out more quickly giving surfers fewer snaps.
On a sand bar beach, the surfer begins paddling out to catch bigger foam waves. There are frequently small real waves reforming as the waves roll to the beach. This is a great learning opportunity. The waves are only a few feet tall but acquaint the surfer with the steep pitch he will learn to accommodate. I have beginners seek the corners which is the pocket rolling away from the apex. The surfer paddles parallel to where the wave breaks and as it rolls in a pocket he lets the pocket roll under his board. He is angled at 45 degrees toward the beach and maintains this angle as he rides the wave.
Catching Real Waves in the Line Up
In the line up, the surfers see the wave form and those who want the wave start paddling. The surfers get some momentum before the wave arrives and allow the wave to roll under the board. As the tail rises, the surfer paddles hard three times to get into the wave. He might decide to ride it down the face, or push the nose toward the pocket and then pop up. The surfer might also angle for the pocket immediately if the wave is not too steep.
Short board surfers like the steep waves because they give the board the power it lacks with a low volume. Long boarders like the slow developing wave because it allows them to catch it early and be riding as it peaks. Long boarders won’t ride down the face of steep waves unless the waves are big so that pearling does not become an issue.
A surfers skills, conditioning, and courage will dictate his progress from smaller to bigger real waves.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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