Catching Real Surfing Waves
Catching real surfing waves is timing and having command of the basic techniques. When newer surfers complain they can’t catch green waves, there are usually a number of factors.
Start with the Fundamentals
Timing, paddling, and the pop up all have to be correct. A foam wave runs straight to the beach and gives the surfer time to line up. A green wave breaks at a point and the surfer must intersect with that point by paddling.
A reef break wave is easy to predict because it always breaks in the same place. A sand bottom beach wave keeps changing break point with the tides and swell. In a half hour period, waves will probably break in the same place on a sand bottom beach.
Waves Differ on Different Beaches
Waves differ. A slow breaking wave that rolls to right or left is easier than fast breaking close outs that are steep. The surf board being used matters. Slow breaking waves on reef breaks beg for long boards. Fast breaking waves that are steep prefer short boarders.
The beginner surfer on a soft top on a sand bottom beach like in Oceanside might start with small inside waves that are not too steep. They might also look for corners after the apex (first foam over the lip)of the wave starts to peel right or left. As the wave rolls the surfer aims for the continuing pocket and aims at a 45 degree angle toward the beach.
As the wave unfurls, it gets closer to the beach. The surfer paddles for the pocket knowing the wave is getting closer to the beach and then positions his board at an angle so the wave comes underneath; Not so sharp as the wave hits the side and rolls it over, but more toward the rear quarter so that it is pushing the board forward as the board also points at the beach.
Mindful of the Soft Top Board
With a soft top, the boards pearl easier on steep waves, so sand bottom beach waves need to be caught usually at an angle if they are breaking steep. Gentle 3′ waves seen in films in tropical reefs are easy catches. One trick of catching a big wave down the face is to catch it and then point the board toward the pocket before popping up. This minimizes pearling.
Another important facet beginners miss in catching real surfing waves is paddling soon enough, hard enough, and long enough. If you are missing waves, one or all three are missing. Beginners have to judge their paddling power. If they are not strong, they need to start sooner. They need to paddle and even kick to get in front of the wave.
Real Waves Roll Under the Board
Real waves have to roll under the surf board so the peak is over the top of the surfer. Many new surfers want to let the wave pass and then paddle over the top. This doesn’t work. Courage is needed to let the wave roll under the board and then, paddling hard, as the tail lifts, pop up on the board.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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