Beginner Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves as they progress out of foam waves. Beginners must learn the fundamentals so they can catch foam waves, pop up into the right stance, and ride waves to the beach every time.
Then beginners can paddle out to catch bigger foam waves and start catching small real waves. On a sand bar beach like Oceanside, the real waves reform near the beach after rolling in from real waves breaking in the outer break. Surfers have to paddle hard on small real waves because they don’t have the power of foam waves. They roll without much force unless they are peaking and closing out.
Going tor the Bigger Real Waves
The surfer then paddles out further to attempt bigger real waves. On reefs, waves break slow and give more time for catching and popping up. They move in slow motion compared to sand bar bottom waves. Sand bar bottom waves peak and close fast. If the beginner is still on an 8′ to 9′ soft top, which they should be, they might want to catch the waves at an angle so the boards don’t pearl (nose under water). Or they can catch the wave and then push the nose toward the pocket so they get ahead of the falling lip and collapsing wave.
Surfers on peaky sand bar breaks often get only a few tricks in before the wave walls off (the whole wave collapsing at once). So riding the real wave becomes riding a foam wave. If the surfer follows the foam wave in, it might reform giving the surfer an opportunity to carve into the new pocket. This is fun and a long ride.
Catching the Peaky Real Waves
On peaky real waves, the surfer has to be in the right spot. The waves break quickly. He lets the wave roll under the board and as the tail rises, paddles hard for three or four strokes to get into the wave. He has to pop up quickly once he catches the wave. Weight on the tail keeps the board from pearling.
Catching real waves takes paddling stamina. The surfer paddles out, paddles hard to catch waves, and paddles back out. The surfer has to have good upper body and arm strength to paddle hard enough. It takes three good powerful paddles to get into the wave. Without good strength, the paddles might be too weak allowing the board to pearl.
Pushups, weights, and cables can build upper body strength. Squats with or without weights will give good flexibility in the hamstrings, buttocks, and lower back. Flexibility allows good quick pop ups. If the surfer is stiff, the pop ups will be slow and he will crash. Stamina is also important so a good aerobic program helps the cardiovascular system recover from repeated peak effort.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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