Beginners Learn to Surf Real Waves after they have mastered the fundamentals on foam waves. This is a process most advantageous on sand bar beaches. Not all reefs will result in a foam wave riding to the beach.
The beginner learns to time foam waves as he rolls over onto his surfboard in waist deep water. Then he paddles as it approaches and paddles hard when it is close to get in front of the wave. These same practices will be utilized to catch real waves.
The beginner must execute the pop up so he lands in the right posture and doesn’t fall off the board. No use to progress if the fundamentals are not mastered. The right posture is feet shoulder width apart, torso upright, weight equal on both legs and most importantly, the hands have to be in front with shoulders and hips squared to the front. In most other board sports, the hips are more parallel to the rails instead of being perpendicular to the rails. This is important.
Progressing to Bigger Foam and then Real Waves
After the beginner has learned to catch foam waves close to the beach, he can paddle out to catch bigger foam waves closer to where the real waves are breaking. He turns around, catches the wave, and gets a long ride to the beach. At this point he can start looking to catch small real waves in the 2′ to 3′ range if possible. These waves are often reforming on a sand bar beach after first breaking out further.
The significant advancement is getting in position for the wave to arc over the tail of the surfboard. On small real waves, the surfer will have to paddle hard on the soft top board for maybe eight or ten strokes to get momentum. Once the wave lifts the tail, the surfer paddles until he feels the board take off down the face. As real waves get bigger, the surfer does not have to paddle as much to catch it. The wave will lift the tail and be moving faster.
It is important to get in front of the wave and not try to catch it from behind. Beginners often wait too long to get in front of it and the wave passes by. Worse is paddling hard after passes and falling off the front of the wave. If the surfer paddles too far in front of the wave, it will break on top of them. Timing is the essence.
It takes judgment and practice plus courage to get in the right spot so the wave forms over the surfboard. Then it only takes a few paddles to get down the face. Watch other surfers in the line up. You will see where they catch it on the face, how they prepare, and how many paddles they need. Once on the face, the surfer bottom turns into the pocket. At the beginning, surfers will just ride down the face and then ride out the foam.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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