Beginner Surfers Progress from Foam to Real Waves
Beginner surfers progress from foam to real waves and move from beginner to intermediate status. This is an exciting time for beginners because this is when they feel they are entering the big leagues. If beginners have mastered the fundamentals of catching foam waves and riding them to the beach, the transition is not difficult.
A big difference between foam waves and real waves is timing. The foam wave is identifiable as it rolls to the beach. The real wave opens and shuts quickly. The surfer should first study the beach to see where waves are breaking. He should look at where other surfers are sitting because they know where the waves are breaking.
Learning to Catch Real Surfing Waves
At the beginning, the surfer should look for the smallest real waves of two to three foot if possible. On a sand bar beach, like Oceanside, the small real waves roll in with the foam waves as real waves that have reformed. On a sand bar beach, waves will break on the outside where advanced surfers sit and then roll to the beach reforming at times into more real waves.
The surfer starts with observing where these secondary waves are breaking. Then he paddles to the area where that is happening. At the beginning, the surfer might want to catch real waves at the corners. Here they have already been rolling from the peak and are smaller. He watches the apex form (where the foam first comes over the lip and the paddles toward the unfurling wave and wants to catch it facing the beach at a 45 degree angle. The wave will roll under the board and the surfer is already in the pocket.
Catching Waves Down the Face
Catching a wave down the face causes all new surfers some fear. The board tips down as though it will pearl and the speed is greater than foam waves. Many beginners want to lean back and fall off the back of the board. At this point, a surfer wants a near perfect pop up. He paddles down the face hard three times and places his hands on the surfboard. Then he pops up into the right posture. He needs to be aggressive in balancing on the board. Sometimes he has to put pressure on the rear foot to keep the nose from pearling.
At first, the surfer just rides down the face and after it breaks, he is riding foam to the beach. Then the surfer learns to do a bottom turn into the pocket. A bottom turn is a carve where the surfer turns his upper torso towards the turn and puts a little pressure on the toes or heels (whichever are on the side of the turn) to create the rail digging slightly into the wave. On a soft top, the pressure has to be light because the thick rails will dig into the wave and catch an edge.
The second way a surfer can get into the pocket off the face is to point the nose towards the pocket after he has caught the wave and then pop up. This is especially advantageous on 8′ or 9′ soft tops to prevent pearling down the face. Lots of practice and lots of crashes will get the surfer the right judgment to start catching real waves more consistently.
Learn More
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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