Beginner Surfers Learn to Catch Real Waves after an apprenticeship of riding foam waves. The fundamentals learned to ride foam waves are the same as riding real waves. What is added is the timing necessary for waves, the courage to ride real waves, and the stamina for more paddling.
Foam waves can be ridden near the beach and the surfer can walk out to waves after each ride. Real waves require paddling out to the break. Getting to real waves requires negotiating income waves, selecting the right wave to ride, and understanding the etiquette of mingling with other surfers.
Learning to Ride Real Waves
Beginner surfers ride foam waves by rolling over on their board before the wave arrives and paddling a few times to get momentum. Then the surfer learns to paddle through the foam waves and turn around to catch a foam wave. Finally, the surfer learns to start catching real and foam waves as they appear.
Catching a real wave requires positioning and timing. The surfer has observed where the waves are breaking. On a reef beach, it is easier because they break in the same place each time. On a sand bar beach, they can move around. The line up is a good indication of where the waves break.
The surfer wants the wave to roll under the board and as the tail rises, he paddles hard three times to get into the wave. The surfer judges the speed and how the wave is going to break and toward which direction. The idea is to get down the face and bottom turn into the pocket. The surfer might also catch the wave and before popping up, push the nose of the surfboard toward the pocket and then pop up.
A final easy way to catch a real wave is to catch it at the corner. The surfer allows the wave to break at the apex, where the foam appears at the peak, and as it rolls in one direction, he paddles toward that direction and lets the wave roll under him. This process does not deal with the wave at its steepest and the pocket is already formed.
It takes time to gain the judgement and lots of falls. Courage is important because the surfer has to know he is going to crash a lot and its often not pretty.
Read a good book to get ready.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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