It is important that Beginner Surfers Learn on the Right Size Board. Surfing is more technical and more tiring than every beginner expects regardless of their conditioning. I have had an ocean swimmer say an hour of surfing is more tiring than an hour of ocean swimming. Not many people can swim for an hour.
A fact about surf boards it that the higher the volume (length x width x thickness) the easier they are to paddle. It amazes me that new surfers before they have learned to surf have already purchased short boards or their parents have purchased them because that is what the young person wants. Short boards are cool, but it takes a long time to acquire the skills, strength, stamina, and courage to utilize a short board.
Learning the Techniques on a Big Board
Beginner surfers have to learn the technique of standing up on a surfboard. The bigger the board, the more forgiving. Too small of a board and the beginner never gets a chance to learn. Riding on a bigger board until the surfer nails the pop up and stance allows them to step a size smaller and be successful. Start to small and the surfer never learns. I get a lot of lessons from people who start on 8′ foam boards and can’t do it. They don’t know the techniques and the board will not support their ungainly efforts.
I use a size up for every one’s height and weight. 70 pound kids can ride a 7′ board and 100 pound students can start with an 8′ board. After 110 pounds, I begin students on an 9′ board. Once a student learns to surf, an 8′ board can be good for students up to 180 pounds. Over 180 pounds I use a high volume 9′ board that is 3.5 inches thick and 24 inches wide. These are over 100L and rarely sold in surf shops.
Learning to Execute the Pop Up Requires a Board that is Forgiving
The beginner surfer has to execute the pop up correctly to keep the board balanced. It is designed so a surfers weight is equal on both sides of the middle stringer. Most boards can perform in real waves so they are designed for performance. If a surfer in the pop up or final stance is not in the correct posture, the board is designed to carve or turn over. Most beginners get the turnover action,
The surfer has to pop up to a stance that would be similar to your stance to push a big box. The feet are shoulder width apart, one behind the other and the hands are in front on the box. The other picture would be like stretching one calf while pushing against a refrigerator. The difference in the surf posture is the surfer is upright with weight equal on both legs, but still has the hands in front.
To get to this posture the beginner surfer begins by catching the foam wave. Then he puts his hands in a man’s push up position next to his rib cage and glides for a few second while gathering his poise. This also prevents him from anxious popups going to fast and flying off the front of the board.
Surfing is Timing and Rhythm
Once the glide is finished, the surfer pushes up and puts a rear foot flat under his butt so he can stand on it. This is important. Surfers do it on dry land but in the water they get on the ball of the rear foot and cannot stand on that. Then they put the second foot on the board while their hands are still on the board. Now, with their head in front of their toes, they fly off the front.
It is important to put the foot flat so the surfer can stand and release his hands. If he doesn’t release his hands, they block the front foot from moving forward. The surfer might then wind up with both feet on the back of the board and fall off the tail. Overweight people have trouble getting their back foot far enough on the board flat because they lack flexibility.
Once the surfer is rising on the back foot, he lifts his hands and puts the front foot in front of his body and is now in the push the box posture, but the torso is upright. The weight must be equal on both sides of the stringer. Snowboarders and skateboarders ride with a shoulder back and maybe a hand trailing. This puts their butt over the rail on a surfboard and they fall off.
This is why having a big board to learn the basics is important. It takes a while for an instructor to get the beginner to learn the timing, rhythm and posture for riding correctly. The beginner needs a very forgiving board. Even then, many beginners are not good learners. They have not been used to having their brain and body learn new physical movements; sometimes called coordination. Coordination is more important than balance. In the right position most people can balance. If they can’t get their feet or timing right, they will not get the posture right.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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