The Oceanside beach is a great place for beginner surfers to learn the fundamentals and advance to riding real waves. There is a great foam wave that begins on the outside and rolls a long way to the beach. This gives surfers many options for riding waves.
The beginner surfers starts in waist deep water on a soft top board and rides to the sand. He learns the basics of timing waves, catching them, popping up and riding without falling. After this he can progress to paddling out for bigger foam waves. Bigger foam waves have more speed and power and afford a longer ride.
Time to Ride Small Real Waves
Then he progresses to riding small real waves that are often reformed after breaking outside and are mixed with the foam waves. Now he is hunting for the right wave and getting in position. The real wave only opens for a few seconds so positioning is important. I have students paddle parallel to where the waves are reforming so they have momentum and can move into the opening faster.
The best way to catch real waves at the beginning is to catch them at the corners. The corner forms after the wave has peaked with foam coming over the top and starts rolling as a pocket. The surfer points the board at a 45 degree angle towards the beach and catches the wave in the pocket. He lets the wave roll under the board, pops up, and continues at the same angle towards the beach.
Moving to Real Waves in the Line Up
When the surfer feels comfortable with this process, he can then paddle out to ride the bigger real waves where the line up of other surfers is formed. He is aware that surfer etiquette states the person on the wave has the right of way over the person who has not caught the wave. So the surfer looks to see if someone is riding before he paddles onto the wave.
After catching some bigger waves at the corners, the surfer starts moving closer to the apex where the foam first comes over the lip. It is steeper and faster at this point which is why advanced surfers always want to catch the wave at the apex. In addition, it gives these surfers the right of way on the wave. Surfers usually take turns so watch who is surfing and then take a turn.
Beginners should start with the reformed waves of 2′ to 3′ tall and not exceed 4′ feet as they move out to the line up. Bigger waves are intimidating and more difficult to catch, especially on sand bar beaches. If you surf on a reef, the wave may start small and slowly build which makes them very easy to catch and the long boarders paradise. Short boards need a peaky wave to get power for the board.
Watch other surfers, look at videos, and read to make quicker progress. It is a long slow process that requires skills, judgment, strength, stamina, and courage.
Learn More:
How Surfboards Are Constructed
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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