Moving from Surfing Foam Waves to Real Waves
The beginner wants to learn how to Move from Surfing Foam Waves to Real Waves. It is a a three step process of advancement. Sometimes my students do it all in one lesson.
The first step begins in the dry land lesson. Students learn the sequence for a beginner pop up. I give students a count that is paddle, stop, push, back foot, stand up, front foot. In the water, only about 3 good paddles are need to catch a foam wave. Then the student places his hands next to his chest for a second as he gets ready to stand up.
The student pushes up and brings one foot forward to place flat on the board under their butt. It is helpful if the student has enough flexibility to put the foot flat. The student stands on the back foot and as he rises brings the other foot forward and places it near the nose of the board. Each step has to be included.
In the Water
In the water, the student begins with catching foam waves. If he is standing, he waits until the wave is 20 feet away and then rolls over on the surfboard and gives it a few easy paddles to get momentum. He look to his side to spot when the wave is going to hit the board. Then he gives it three hard paddles to get in front of the wave. He then puts his hands next to his chest and executes the pop up.
The process doesn’t change as the student progresses. He paddles out through the foam wave and turns around to catch a foam wave. He then can paddle out further (easier on sand bottom beaches as opposed to reefs like in Oceanside) to catch bigger waves. Soon he should be looking for the small real waves that have reformed or are breaking on a small swell day.
Catching Real Waves
The process for catching real waves is the same. The student now is lying on his board paddling in search of waves. He spots the real wave starting to form. He turns so the wave will roll under the wave. On small waves, the surfer on a soft top board paddles hard maybe six to eight paddles to get in front of where the wave is going to arc. If the surfer is not moving fast, the wave will pass him by.
This is where the surfer needs poise. As the wave arcs, the surfer will feel an increase in speed. He must still execute the steps of the pop up or he will muff the wave. The surfer must stop, then push and execute with his feet. He has plenty of time, especially on small waves. As real waves get bigger in the 5′ to 6′ category they are moving fast and the pop ups need to be quick.
When small real waves form, the surfer can catch the wave and aim toward the pocket so when he pops up, he will already be riding in the pocket. This prevents pearling (nose going under water). Once the surfer starts catching small waves he progresses to bigger waves.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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