Do We Have Natural Instincts for Learning to Surf?
Most beginners learning to surf would rather lean on their natural instincts that pay attention to the techniques they are taught in a dry land lesson. The truth is all our instincts for learning to surf are wrong. The biggest challenge in instructing new students is overcoming their instincts.
It is now wonder people trying to learn surfing on their own without instruction become frustrated or learn really bad habits. I have taught many people who after spending a great deal of time trying to learn on their own finally give up and decide they need help. Because these people have learned a few things and become comfortable in the ocean, correcting their mistakes might not be difficult.
Learn the Rhythm and Timing of Surfing
Beginners do not understand the rhythm and timing of surfing. They think after watching surfers on film that everything occurs in one explosion of energy. The fact is there is a sequence of events that create a smooth rhythm of techniques. Beginners can often be observed popping up on their board before the wave has arrive to push the board. Then the wave hits them and knocks them down.
Paddling out and trying to learn catching real waves is a mistake. That is an advanced step that first requires practice in foam waves near the beach. Mistakes are made about the first board to try. Beginners should begin with soft tops that have high volume for their weight. Over 110 pounds, I begin surfers on 9′ soft tops. Once they master the techniques they can more easily step to lower volume boards. People over 200 pounds need a high volume 9′ board. I use a 9′ by 24″ wide by 3.5″ thick for their instructions.
Beginners Need to Catch the Wave Before Putting Hands on the Board
The first important step is to catch the wave before putting hands on the board. This is a mistake made by 90% of newbies resulting in pushing the nose under water in what is called a pearl. They stuff the nose. A foam wave lifts the tail tilting the nose down. The surfer must paddle until the board is level and the nose comes up. This only takes about three or four strong paddles.
Beginners don’t understand hard paddling. The board has to be accelerated for a few strokes when the wave hits the tail to get in front of it. If the surfer is not paddling hard enough, the tail continues in the foam of the wave until the wave turns it over. The surfer accelerates and puts their hands on the board at peak speed.
Beginners always want to throw their hands in front of their shoulders in an already pushed up position. They do this even after told not to in dry land lessons. To overcome this, I tell them to stop and glide after their three paddles. Stopping is placing hands in a man’s push up position next to their rib cage. They should glide for a few seconds. Pushing in this pose keeps the board level.
The Right Stance is Necessary to Stay Riding
Beginners don’t get their feet or final stance right. Once foot has to be under their butt and the other is driven forward near the nose. Incorrect pop ups often put people on the back of the board so the nose rises and they fall off the back. The right stance looks like pushing a tall box with feet apart and both hands in front on the box.
If a surfer can accomplish all this they are riding to the beach. It takes most people many tries and corrections in the water to finally get it right. Being physically fit, not overweight, and flexible helps. Training to surf can be assisted with pushups for strength and squats without weights for flexibility. Stamina can be improved with any aerobic exercise that raises the heart beat. Losing weight helps most surfers improve.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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