Beginners surf real waves after learning the basic techniques on foam waves. Catching waves, doing the pop up, and riding the surf board on foam waves is great preparation for the next step
After beginners learn to catch foam waves and ride them to the beach, they learn to paddle out, turn around and catch bigger foam waves and start working on small real waves.
The Timing of Real Waves
A foam wave can be seen for a long time and the entry point can be from where it first breaks to someplace close to shore. A real wave arcs for a few seconds and the surfer has to be in position to catch it at the right spot.
Smaller real waves often occur on sand bar bottom beaches close to shore inside of where the bigger real waves first break. The idea is to catch them early by paddling in front of them before they arc to crash.
The beginner surfer has to learn to see them. When I work with students, spotting the wave starting to rise out of the water is student’s first difficulty. The surfer should be paddling his board in the area where they form hunting them and watching for them to first show form.
Then the surfer gets in front of the wave so it begins to arc and push the surfboard. Too late is when the foam is already coming over the top where it will then crash on the board.
The surfer learns to let a foam wave hit the board and has a little difficulty with the concept of getting in front of the wave as soon as it starts to form. With bigger real waves, the surfer lets the wave come underneath the board and then does three paddles down the face.
Deciding on the Direction to Ride the Wave
Small real waves can be ridden down the face. If a beginner is on an 8′ or 9′ foam board, they may want to angle the board so they don’t pearl. When the wave forms and the foam comes over the top at the apex, the wave will then roll down the line.
Catching the wave as it rolls away from the apex is catching the corner. The surfer aims at a 45 degree angle toward the beach and lets the wave come under the board and he is already in the pocket. He can ride the wave until it dies.
Another way of choosing direction is allowing the wave to come under the board, paddling to catch it, and then before popping up, turning it toward the pocket. This enables the board to be in the pocket right away and the surfer does not have to go down the face and bottom turn into the pocket.
Practice teaches judgement and the surfer has to be willing to experience lots of crashes in this phase. Watch other surfers, watch video on YouTube, and practice.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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