Beginner surfers catch real waves after mastering techniques and catching foam waves. Riding a foam wave is simple as the surfer waits for a straight line of foam to approach and then rolls over onto his board in front of it.
A real wave has to be caught as it arcs and the surfer needs to let the wave roll under his board. As the wave lifts the tail of the surfboard, the surfer paddles hard three times and down the face.
Three Ways to Ride the Face
The first way is straight down. This is often easy of small waves and necessary on big steep waves. The surfer then turns into the pocket with a bottom turn.
A second way is often best when waves are steep and closing our fast. The surfer wants to get away from the falling lip. As he catches the wave down the face, he points the board toward the pocket before he pops up. Then when he pops up, he is heading into the pocket away from the lip.
A third way is good for beginners or waves two steep at the apex. The surfer paddles to corner where the wave is moving slower and is not as steep.Then he pops into the wave at a 45 degree angle toward the beach. This puts him in the pocket in a safer place.
Learning Waves
Waves arrive on two or three types of beaches. There are sand bottom beaches where the bottom shifts all the time and waves are always different. There are reef breaks where an impediment in the ocean causes the wave to break and forms the biggest and most consistent waves. There are point breaks where the waves wrap around a land structure and have pockets for very long rides.
Waves break upon different swell directions, swell sizes, tides, and wind conditions. Some surfers get to know what they like, but most of the time you are subject to swell size, direction, and tide changes. Learning to ride waves is a life time endeavor because they are always changing.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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