With all the hype in movies going to shortboards, some wonder Why Surfers Like the Long Board. The long board is technically surfboards longer than 9′. Midsize boards are 6’10” to 9′. Shortboards shorter than 6’10”
What changes with surfboard sizes. The main essential is volume. The longer boards have more volume. That makes them easier to paddle, easier to catch waves, easier to ride waves, and better for some types of waves and beaches.
The Fun of Surfing the Long Board
When waves are small or not sharp and peaky, the long board has advantages. The high volume allows it to catch smaller waves. If waves form gradually and not as a sudden peak, the long board can catch the wave early and be up and riding as wave is peaking. On beaches with these types of waves, the long boarder has an advantage over shortboards because shortboarders have to wait for the wave to peak.
The long board is easier to paddle. This has an advantage for people who can’t surf often. An advantage for older people not as strong as they once were. Makes longer sessions easier because it is less fatiguing. The ride is more smooth without the need to accelerate and make sharp carves. A person does not need to be as athletic to ride the waves on long boards.
The long board can drive the wave with little input needed. Once the wave is caught, the long board is fast in the pocket and can be driven to the end of the wave with a few maneuvers for fun. The long board better accommodates the overweight surfer. It is easier to pop up and the higher volume makes balance easier.
The long board is usually best on reef beaches where waves break with form and not too much peak. Once waves get over a certain height, however, they are going to get peaky and heavy. At this point a long boarder might switch to a “gunn” which is a long and heavier board with points at each end to handle the speed of big waves.
Good surfers like a long board and short board and have both boards in their quiver. That way they can ride at more beaches, different types of waves, and different sizes. This also provides more variety for people who surf often.
Read a good book to get ready.
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