New surfers learn to catch real waves after learning the fundamentals on foam waves. Catching real waves is learning timing. All the fundamentals have to be in place because the speed increases.
Starting with Foam Waves
A foam wave moves slowly in comparison to a real wave. You can see the foam wave and there is a large window to get in front of it. A real wave arcs and has to be intersected at the right seconds.
Jumping to Real Waves
Surfers observe where real waves are breaking and there is usually a line up of surfers at that spot. There is etiquette which means taking turns. There is also a right of way which says the surfer nearest the foam breaking over the lip has the right of way on the wave. Sometimes waves are breaking in two directions meaning two surfers can ride.
In catching a real wave, surfers observe the wave is forming. They paddle to the spot they think the wave will arc. Then they can decide which direction they want to surf observing at the same time what the other surfers are doing. If they have the right of way, they allow the wave to roll under their surf board and paddle into the face.
Working the Surfers Line Up
A good technique in the line up with other surfers is to start paddling for the wave when it is your turn, notifying the other surfers you want the wave. If you have been courteous with them and catching your waves, they will give you room.
When catching waves, you can also paddle at an angle to get into the face. If you paddle toward the corner after the wave has already been rolling, you angle at 45 degrees toward the beach and the wave is less steep at this point.
Angling on the Take Off
A second way to catch the wave at an angle is point down the face and after you have caught the wave with three paddles, turn the nose of the board toward the pocket before popping up. This puts you ahead of the falling lip and into the pocket faster.
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