Learning to Surf the Short Board
Learning to Surf the Short Board is another step in progress to advanced surfing. It is important that surfers learn in stages and don’t rush the progression. A lot of skills are developing in each step.
The beginner starts with a soft top and learns how to catch foam waves, do pop ups, and ride straight to the beach without falling. Then he paddles out to catch bigger foam waves and begins to seek small real waves. In this path, the surfer is becoming comfortable in the ocean, learning to judge waves, getting stronger, perfecting the pop up, and learning to ride without falling off.
The surfer then starts riding bigger foam waves up to 3′ to 5′. An 8′ soft top is capable of riding big waves and handles well. The surfer learns to catch waves down the face, turn the nose of the board toward the pocket before popping up, and can catch waves at the corner. This is a good time to start considering a hard board.
Moving to the Hardboard
The surfer should not move down in size dramatically. It is still a long way to get to the technical short board at 6’10”. The surfer should start with a 7’6″ hardboard (fun board) that is 21+” wide and 2 3/4 at least thick. He will learn many new things. It will be harder to paddle because it does not have the volume. He now needs more power from the wave as it arcs. It might be a little more sensitive to the pop up and riding. He learns to be accurate and refine his movements.
Riding bigger waves requires courage. The surfer develops courage slowly as he gets in better condition and continues to perfect his pop up. The ocean is powerful and the surfer is put in his place after getting slammed a few times. He knows who is boss and the importance of learning the techniques.
When the surfer can catch real waves, ride in the pocket, knows how to bottom turn, accelerate, and cut back, he may consider a shorter board. The shorter board becomes more maneuverable but does not add many other qualities. A surfer who is not in the water frequently may decide the fun board suits his needs. The surfer doesn’t want to lose the stoke by getting a board that is no longer fun.
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The Surfers Life
Why do surfers surf? What is it about the culture that attracts and holds millions of people in the world? Why is the culture growing and how has it infiltrated our world with clothing, music, fitness, and stoke?
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A great 29 page course on the fundamentals of catching waves, doing beginner and advanced pop ups, riding real waves, how to do maneuvers on real waves, which surfboards to ride, and how to progress. Great for lesson preparation, after lesson review, or learning on your own.
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Build Immunity in this Covid Era
The new Omicron variants can often sidestep the anti-bodies in vaccinations. This is when we need to have a strong immunity system. This is when people with underlying conditions like obesity or chronic metabolic disorders like diabetes become vulnerable.
Developing good health habits will help your immune system. The main components would be to attain a healthy weight. Eat healthy. Exercise, Get adequate sleep. Mitigate stress. Drink half your body weight in water oz (a 200-pound person drinks 100 oz.) Consider supplements for the nutrients you may not consume in your daily diet.
One of my favorites is the Rishi mushroom. It has been chronicled in Chinese medicine for thousands of years. It supports the major systems. It fights viruses, bacteria, allergies, and inflammation. I get a compilation of 5 reishi mushrooms extracted and combined into one powder. You can get a discount as my client with this link.
This is a short statement that says it all:
- Reishi: Reishi is arguably the most important and most revered herb used by Asian people throughout history to promote radiant health, longevity and a more centered state of mind. It is known to be among the most protective herbs in the world. Reishi may help improve immunological, neurological, metabolic, hepatic and vascular protection, among other functions.
