Learning to Catch Bigger Waves is the ambition of many new surfers. There is the allure of the bigger thrill. New surfers should also be aware that bigger waves are heavier, move faster, and wreck more intensely.
Catching bigger waves needs progress in skills, strength, stamina, and courage. Paddling has to become efficient and paddling stamina better. The pop up has to be perfected because miscues result in thrashings. Learning to read waves becomes an art that surfers practice all their lives.
Learning to Catch Bigger Waves
Surfers start riding foam waves. After they can pop up correctly and ride straight to the beach, they can paddle out and start riding bigger foam waves. At this point they should also start looking for the small real waves. Sand bottom beaches like Oceanside, have steeper breaking waves than reef bottoms that many long boarders like. The steeper wave favors a shorter board and needs quick bottom turns.
Waves can be ridden down the face, or surfers turn the board at the top before they pop up to face the pocket. Thirdly, surfers move to the corners where the wave is not as steep and is already in a pocket. Learning when to use each is a matter of judgement learned. Steep waves down the face is for advanced riders. Sometimes the waves are breaking too fast or closing out as surfers say and the surfer wants to point his board toward the pocket before popping up to outrun the falling lip.
Catching big waves at the corners is a good way to start riding bigger waves and to ride waves that are closing or too steep. The surfer paddles toward where he knows the wave is far from the apex (where the foam first comes over the lip) and heads at a 45 degree angle towards the beach. He lets the wave roll under hip and continues the 45 degree angle toward the beach now that he is in the pocket.
Catching waves down the face is a practice of getting into position where waves are breaking. The line up is a good indication of where waves break. When the surfer sees a wave forming he paddles to position himself so the wave will roll under the surf board. As the wave is peaking (this is for short boards), his board tail is high and he paddles hard three times to catch it and then pops up. Long boards are able to get on waves very early in their formation which makes waves much easier to time and catch.
More courage is needed each time a surfer advances to bigger waves. All the big wave riders say they were terrified in each step up. Surfers don’t eliminate fear, they learn to manage it.
Read a good book to get ready.
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Get the Learn to Surf Guide Course in Kindle, Paperback or Audio
A great 29 page course on the fundamentals of catching waves, doing beginner and advanced pop ups, riding real waves, how to do maneuvers on real waves, which surfboards to ride, and how to progress. Great for lesson preparation, after lesson review, or learning on your own.
Kindle price $2.99 on Amazon. Paperback price $6.95 on Amazon. Audio download price $7.95
Get Fit to Surf
A great guide to strength, flexibility, stamina, and leanness for surfing. Beginner strategies for getting stronger, more flexible, stronger cardiovascular system, and nutrition to lose weight. An improving surfer or one who wants to prepare must meet the whole body physical demands of surfing. Getting stronger improves ones ability to perform better.
Buy on Kindle for $5.99 or the Paperback for $7.99
Every Body Can Surf
To read a great book for getting in shape to surf or getting in better surfing shape, read my new book Overweight People Can Surf, a Health, Fitness, Nutrition, and Surfing Adventure
Description:
Get healthy and fit to surf or set a goal of surfing to improve weight, fitness, nutrition, and health. This guide by a surf instructor/health coach/personal trainer gives the short version of how to lose weight, get strong, build stamina, develop nutrition, and learn to surf. Surfing is a lifestyle enjoyed by millions and so is fitness. Fitness creates opportunities to enjoy life through lots of different kinds of recreation. No need to stand on the sidelines while others are having a great time. Start your program to health with easy steps and progress at your own pace. That is the secret to maintaining a lifestyle. Do it at your pace. This book will start you on the path.
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Seniors Get Fit to Surf
Description:
Seniors often ask if it is too late to learn to surf. Age is functional not chronological. If people have been exercising and maintaining body strength, surfing can be accomplished. If people have not been exercising, then getting in shape to surf could be a life changing move. Learn how to develop strength, flexibility, and stamina to learn surfing. If you are in surf shape, you could pursue most any recreation.
Buy the E-book on Amazon for $5.99
Buy the Paperback on Amazon for $7.99
