Surfers get enthused with surfing and there is always the lingering question about How to Surf Bigger Waves. It is the question that we find in many sports. If you like climbing mountains, there might be the question of how high you can climb. If you like distance bike riding there is always the question of how far you can ride.
It is a test, it is a quest, it is a challenge, and it is the ultimate measure. Most surfers draw the line at some point. A few are surfing Nazarre, Jaws, Mavericks, and Teahupoo because they have not drawn that line. They want more.
Do Surfers Have Fear?
Are they ever afraid? Yes. One pro surfer in a contest said these waves are big, but this is what I do and who I am. For those dedicated to reach the ultimate and determined to find out who they are, there is no turning back. Of course, pros don’t try to find the biggest waves, they aim at riding whatever waves show up better than everyone else. It is a little different.
So, we start with your mind set. How far do you want to go? How much are you willing to risk? How much are you willing to prepare? If you are beginning, a six foot wave is a good target for big waves. As waves get bigger, they move faster and have more weight. A cubic meter of water weighs one ton. A ten foot high wave that is 20′ long weighs 410 tons. You never take the whole thing on the head, but is good to know you are dealing with a lot of weight.
Some waves are thin and don’t have a lot of push. Famous waves like Mavericks and Shipsterns are thick and have a lot of push, meaning they are traveling fast, have weight meaning if you fall, you might be driven down 40′. Getting driven deep can blow your ear drums, cause you to run out of breath, make you disoriented, and possibly smash you on the bottom.
How Big are Big Waves?
Big waves are generally considered to be over 20′. Surfers paddle into waves up to 50′ and the general rule is if surfers are paddling, other surfers can’t be towed in. The reason surfers get towed is they can’t paddle fast enough to catch big waves. This brings up the point that big wave surfing requires strong paddling.
Beginners start with 3′ waves and progress. They learn the timing. They learn to let the wave roll under the surfboard and then paddle down the face. As surfers attempt 5′ waves they find they need stronger paddling than they did as beginners and for 3′ waves. The average surfer might see 8′ to 10′ waves in their prime. These require fast paddling, deep drops, good bottom turns, and a lot of courage.
Yes, courage is the 800 pound gorilla in the room. Considering the weight of the wave, surfers soon realize that falls entail getting hit by their surfboard as a possibility. I once fell off a 5′ wave and landed on the rail of my surfboard and cracked a rib. Tolerance for injury is part of the quest. Getting rolled underwater without control is a frequent encounter. My first time getting rolled by a 7′ wave in which I was doing underwater backward somersaults and helpless to do anything was a wake up. I was calm and said when Mother Nature decides to release me, then I will be at the surface.
Laird Hamilton, famous big wave surfer, was once asked how long he could hold his breath. If you saw Chasing Mavericks, the young surfer was told by his mentor he had to hold his breath for four minutes because with several hold downs, that is how long you need. Laird said he didn’t know, but so far, long enough.
As you seek bigger waves, these thoughts will enter your consciousness. You have to decide what it means to you. Are you willing to risk everything or is coming out of the water and going to work the main objective. You learn the judgment and skills from practicing. Practicing will be about reaching your limits on a regular basis and taking those falls and wipe outs. If you stick to it, you will find how big you are willing to go.
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