Catching Real Surfing Waves
Catching Real Surfing Waves is an art and a science. Surfers work all their lives to improve their wave catching skills. The fun and challenge of surfing begins with the waves caught.
Surfers learn about the differences between waves that break on sand bar beaches and waves that break on reefs. All professional surf contests are held on reefs because the waves break the same and it is easier to compare surfers. On sand bar beaches, the bottom is continuously changing and you never know what you will get for waves.
The Beach Determines Which Waves Break
Waves vary wherein some beaches are best for short boards and some for long boards. The long boarders like waves that form slowly and break slowly so they can get into the waves early and into the pocket early. Short boarders like peaky waves because their boards need the power of the arc. A short boarder can’t get the launch power from a slow forming waves. Therefore, surfers are selecting the beaches that give them the waves they like.
How surfers want to ride determines which board they select. The short boarder needs more strength, stamina, and agility. The long boarder likes the easier paddling and easy pop up to catch waves as well as driving the board in the pocket. The short boarder wants to perform lots of tricks and maneuvers in the pocket. The long boarder moves back and forth on his board for carves while the short boarder carves with pressure on the rails.
How the Short Boarder Catches Waves
The short boarder lets the wave roll under his board and paddles hard down the face to get on the wave. Then he bottom turns into the pocket. To get to the pocket faster, the short boarder will catch the wave and then point the nose to the pocket before popping up. This eliminates the bottom turn. When waves are real peaky, the long boarder pearls easily. He likes to point the nose to the pocket before the wave breaks.
Both board types can catch waves at the corners. If waves are too big or too peaky, the corners are smaller and easier to catch. The surfer paddles parallel to the wave and lets it roll under him. He is pointed at a 45 degree angle to the beach and maintains that angle as he catches the wave. Then he is in the pocket and perform whatever maneuvers he enjoys.
Some surfers have short boards and long boards. They look at the waves and decide which board would better suit the day. On beaches where the waves are closing out quickly and the surfers are only getting a short ride, the surfer will select the short board. When the pockets are rolling for a long time, this is a good day for the long board. The long board needs time to make turns and have fun.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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