5 Things beginners learn in a surf lesson include water safety, balancing on a surf board while paddling, catching waves, popping up, and riding. One reason beginners can’t learn to surf on their own is they don’t understand the timing of each.
Water Safety
Water safety is relevant to handling the surf board in the water since it can hit you. I tell beginners to drag the board behind them by the leash and lift the tail above incoming foam waves. The main point is don’t hold or let the board get between your body and the wave because the wave hits the board and knocks you down.
When you lie on the surf board, your nose has to be in the middle, your feet together at the back of the board and you balance the board with your butt. The feet have to be at the very back or when the wave lifts the tale, the nose will go under water (called a pearl).
Catching Waves
Catching a wave is timing. You want a big enough foam wave to push the board. You roll over on the surf board 20 feet before the wave arrives and start paddling easy. When the wave is 3 feet away, you paddle hard 3-5 times. When the nose of the board goes from the downward angle and rises to a level angle while being pushed, you place your hands on the board for the popup.
The Pop Up
The pop up for beginners is a few simple steps and I ask beginners to say them out loud; they are more successful when they do. The first step is paddle. When you have caught the wave, place your hands on the board under your chest and I call this rest. Then push up on the board. Then put the back foot under your butt so you can stand up on it. Stand and lift your hands while bringing the front foot to the middle and front of the board.
I give the count these names, paddle, rest, push, back foot, stand up, and front foot. At this point, you should be on the board, feet shoulder width apart, knees flexed, shoulders and hips squared to the beach. Both hands ini front where you can see them.
If you get turned with your butt over one of the rails, you will fall off that side. If a hand is trailing or one shoulder is back, I call this snowboarding or just butt over the rail. It is a fall for most beginners.
Finally, if your posture is right as described above, you can ride straight to the beach with very little work. The next step is to paddle out through the foam waves, turn around and catch the next wave.
For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page
For my Dry Land and Water Demo video
For a good video on catching waves with back foot first