3 Styles for Catching Bigger Surf Waves that work on most breaks. Beginner surfers start with foam waves and progress to paddling out for bigger foam waves and then transition to real waves. They can incorporate three different styles for this process as waves move up in size.
The first step is to catch small waves and ride down the face. Beginners should start with real waves that are 2′ to3′ and on beach breaks are often mingled with the foam waves. The surfer works on both. When he is in position and a foam wave is arriving he can catch the foam wave. If the real wave breaks out further and then reforms as it rolls to the beach, he should take advantage and try to catch it.
One difference in catching foam waves and real waves is timing. A foam wave pushes the board from behind. A real wave has to be caught as it arcs. This is a more precise timing issue. Two problems that now the surfer faces is not letting the real wave roll past him and not letting it crash on top of him.
If the wave rolls past the surfer, he does not want to try and catch it and plummet over the top. The reason the wave often crashes on top of the surfer is because he is not watching it. In catching foam waves, surfers usually turn their back on the wave and let it hit the board. In catching a real wave for beginners, I suggest they get close to where they are breaking and paddle parallel to the wave (and beach) watching for the wave to form.
As the real wave forms the surfer can watch and wait while still moving to keep up the momentum. The first problem newer surfers have in catching real waves is paddling hard enough. As the wave forms, the surfer knows whether he is in position. He then turns toward the beach and lets the wave come under the surfboard. As the tail rises, he paddles hard and can even kick to get into the wave.
A second style for catching real waves is to let the wave roll under the surfboard, catch it, and then push the nose toward the pocket before popping up. This is often a good practice on sand bar beaches where the waves are steep and close out fast. In this process, the surfer is into the pocket quicker and ahead of the falling lip.
The third style that is good for waves to unstable to catch at the apex (where the foam first appears on the lip) or too big for the surfer’s comfort is to catch them at the corners. The surfer paddles parallel to the wave and watches as it forms, He is closer to shore than if he were to catch the wave at the apex. He lets it break and paddles for the pocket that is rolling out right or left.
The surfer is facing the beach at a 45-degree angle and lets the wave roll under the surfboard. Now he paddles hard and keeps the 45-degree angle as he is now in the pocket and riding the wave until it dies out. When I was learning to ride bigger waves, I liked getting to the corners to gain comfort in being close to bigger waves and getting a sense of the timing.
Moving from the corners to the apex is a big transition. It requires courage and the skills to execute a good pop up. No one wants to get wiped out on bigger waves, but it is part of the learning process. The surfer must have great paddling strength for bigger waves as paddling too slow insures a wipeout. Conditioning for bigger waves is part of the learning process. The surfer may need some gym time like the professionals to get ready.
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