What Surfers Learn on Foam Waves
What Surfers Learn on Foam Waves begins the adventure to riding real waves. It is important in many things to start at the bottom. Surfing is more technical than people realize and the basic techniques that lead to advanced surfing begin at the start.
The best way to learn to surf without making it too complicated is to start with foam waves on a soft top surfboard. This allows the easiest platform to learn catching waves, popping up, and riding. Beginners who start on short boards and in real waves only find frustration and probably get worked.
The Fundamentals of Riding Foam Waves
Foam waves often break close to shore like in Oceanside where I teach. Students only have to go into waist deep water eliminating the anxiety many have of going deep and facing big waves. In waist deep water ,the surfer waits for a foam wave that is a straight line and rolls onto the board when it is 20 feet away. He starts paddling to get momentum and watches for the wave to start pushing the board.
When the wave starts pushing at the tail, the surfer paddles hard a few times to get the board in front of the wave and the tail out of the foam . The board can be felt to take off at this point. When it takes off (have to learn to feel it) the surfer puts his hands on the board in a man’s push up position next to his chest. This is the same type of start necessary when catching real waves. At this point the board hits maximum speed and the momentum helps the pop up.
The surfer could actually ride the board to the beach in this position with his hands on the board. I often make students do this so they realize there is no need to rush. Most students feel anxiety and the need to pop up too soon causing them to be out of sorts and look very awkward. Smooth is the key, not speed.
Then the surfer begins the pop up motion after collecting his poise with his hands on the board. He is also ensuring at this point that the board is going straight and is level with the assistance of good paddling. Paddling gets momentum and keeps the board going straight. Dip the arms into the water up to the elbows and pull with the forearms. No hand paddling or long swim strokes. Both are ineffective.
The Pop Up
With the hands in a man’s push up position and the chest still on the board with the chin up (don’t rest chin on the board), the surfer pushes up and brings the right or left foot under the butt in the middle of the board and places it flat so the surfer can stand on it. In one motion, the surfer stands on the foot rising to an upright position with the upper body over both legs and looking forward. He brings the other foot forward and places it in the center of the board at a 45 degree angle forward.
Now the surfer should be in the correct stance. The stance is feet shoulder width apart, the weight equal on both legs, knees flexed, and the shoulders and hips squared to the front of the board. He doesn’t want a shoulder or arm trailing like he is snowboarding or skateboarding. This shifts the weight to the heels and places the butt over one rail. This leads to a quick or imminent fall off the board.
The pop up in foam waves is the same pop up used in real waves. This is why it is important to master it in easy conditions. As the surfer progresses, a good pop up will give him confidence when facing challenging waves or bigger foam waves. The pop up is the center of confidence. Landing correctly on the board is crucial which is proven in foam waves if the board goes straight without work. Falling off in bigger waves means the surfer gets worked.
Many people will ride foam waves every time because they don’t get in the water often enough to progress and they might not have the physical conditioning to paddle out and deal with more challenging elements. Many people don’t have the courage to paddle out and face heavier waves. No problem. A surfer should have fun where he is most comfortable. Riding foam waves is a lot of fun and very good exercise.
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Get the Learn to Surf Guide Course in Kindle, Paperback or Audio
A great 29 page course on the fundamentals of catching waves, doing beginner and advanced pop ups, riding real waves, how to do maneuvers on real waves, which surfboards to ride, and how to progress. Great for lesson preparation, after lesson review, or learning on your own.
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