Timing for Catching Waves
The timing for catching waves is judgement learned from practice. Riding foam waves requires timing and riding real waves requires timing. The difference between foam and real waves is great and the skills need to be learned patiently.
Foam waves can be seen for a long time as they roll to the beach. Real waves peak and move at different speeds. As a rule, the bigger a real wave is, the heavier and faster it is moving. As surfers move from 3′ waves to 6′ waves, they need to be prepared for the speed.
The Basics of Timing Waves
A foam wave is best when it is a straight bead rolling in a straight line. 15′ before the wave arrives, the surfer rolls over on the board and begins paddling. A smooth rollover without having to adjust is important to time the wave. The surfer paddles a few times easy and then the wave should be at the board. The surfer then paddles hard for a few strokes until the board takes off in the wave. At this point, the surfer puts his hands on the board.
In a real wave, surfers want the wave to roll under them and as the lip peaks, the surfer paddles a few times hard and many kick to get the board moving down the face. Reef waves and sand bar beach waves can be different at the same heights. Waves don’t hold form well on sand bar beaches after 6′ so at this point most surfers are looking for the reef in their neighborhood.
Intermediate surfers are dealing with courage as they learn to ride real waves. Many let the wave roll past them and try to catch it. If they do, they roll over the top and crash. If they paddle too early, the wave breaks on top of them or it has too much angle and causes them to pearl. The surfer has to learn to let the wave roll under the board and paddle easy as the bottom under him is rising. As the board gets more vertical and depending on the size of his board, he can paddle hard to go down the face.
One of the issues newer surfers don’t consider when they want to buy shorter boards is the wave has to be steeper to launch them. They didn’t always buy into the fact they need more courage to ride a smaller board. A higher volume board moves earlier. Long boarders on waves that aren’t too steep are entering way before the short boarders. On “long board” beaches which are usually reefs, they have a big advantage. On steeper waves, the short boards have an advantage.
When talking about very large waves over 30′, the surfers are going to longer boards to control the speed. These boards are often “guns” which are tapered on each end specifically to help control the speed. On bigger waves, surfers will also start adjusting their fins. Of course, if you are riding these waves, you don’t need to be told.
Start riding real waves on 3′ foot waves that are often reforming after a real wave breaks on sand bar beaches. Or wait for small days. You also learn to catch the corners after the wave has broken and it is rolling in a pocket. You catch these waves facing 45 degrees toward the beach as the wave rolls under the board and you continue at that 45 degree angle.
Practice. Practice.
Read a good book to get ready.
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Get the Learn to Surf Guide Course in Kindle, Paperback or Audio
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