Learning to Surf

Learning to surf is a comprehensive experience including physical conditioning, learning waves, practicing techniques, and understanding equipment.

My E-book Surf Instruction Beginner to Advanced is a comprehensive guide to all these important points.

It sells on Amazon for $2.99

This is the Table of Contents and then a brief introduction:

Table of Contents

I>Preparing the Beginner for the Adventure

1. Water Safety                                                             
2. Preparing Your Body to Surf                                   
3. Nutrition for Surfing                                                  
4. Wet Suits and Leashes                                           
5. Journaling                                                                 
6. What the Oceans Teaches about Spirituality        
7. Swimming with the Dolphins                                   
8. Cross Training                                                          

II>Waves, Beaches and Boards

1. Learning About Waves                                            
2. Sand Bar vs Reef Beaches                                     

111>Board Definitions

1. Board Selection                                                        
2. Soft Top Boards                                                       
3. High Performance Short Board                              
4. Hybrid Short Board                                                  
5. Mini Long Board (fun board)                                   
6. Long Board                                                               
7. Soft Top and Styrofoam Boards                             
8. Paddling and the Board You Choose                     

IV>Beginner Lessons

1. Finding the Sweet Spot on Your Board                  
2. The Pop Up                                                              
3. Pearling                                                                     
4. Going Over The Falls                                               
5. Riding Foam Waves
6. Three Methods of Paddling                                         
7. Getting Out Through the Waves                                 
8. Going Turtle                                                                  
9. Paddling Through the Lip                                             
10. Standing Up on the Board                                           
11. Letting Go of Your Board                                             

V>Intermediate Lessons

1. Surfing Better Waves Makes Surfers Better              
2. Duck Diving                                                                   
3. Peaks, Shoulders, and Corners                                  
4. Close Outs and Walled Off Waves                          37
5. Catching Waves Before They Break                       37
6. Timing the Wave                                                       38
7. The Need For Courage                                             40
8. Getting the Feel of the Wave                                   42
9. Types of Maneuvers                                                 43
10. How to Start Carving                                                 44
11. Stability vs Speed                                                      45
12. Cut Backs                                                                   46
13. Angling on the Wave                                                 47
14. Driving the Wave                                                       48
15. Pumping in Transition                                               49
16. Pumping Down the Pocket                                       49
17. Accelerating or Rail to Rail                                       50
18. The Right of Way in the Line Up                              53
19. Winning in the Line Up                                              56
20. Surfing Any Day Big or Small                                   58
21. Learning to Fall                                                          59
22. Take Your Riding to the Inside                                62
23. Long Board Techniques                                           63
24. Big Wave Surfing                                                      66

VI>Advanced Lessons

1. Making Bottom Turns                                               67
2. Hitting the Lip                                                             68

VII>Tricks

1. How to Do and Land Aerials                                    68
2. How to Land 360’s                                                    68
3. Aerial 360’s                                                                69
4. Back Side Reverse                                                   69
5. Front Side Air Reverse                                             70
6. Snaps Off the Lip                                                      72
7. Tail Slides                                                                  72
8. Floating the Lip                                                          72
9. Getting Barreled                                                        73

VIII>How Surf Boards are Constructed

1.   Surf Board Construction                                           77

Introduction

Laird Hamilton rode a historically large wave at Teahupoo, Tahiti that made Surfing Magazine Cover with the caption “Oh My God”. His dad asked him why he does these crazy things and his answer: “I do not want to not live because I am afraid of what might happen”.

In learning to surf, I read a lot of books on various aspects of this great sport. The history is rich with early island surfers on big boards. The sport eventually spread to Australia and America and then all over the world.

I have been a lifelong skier and recent snowboarder. Surfing offers similar but different challenges than either of my previously two favorite sports. For those who love surfing, it becomes addicting. Living at the beach, I get to serve that addiction every day. I have also had the opportunity to start many surfers on their first ride. That also becomes addicting.

There is a real thrill in standing up on that board the first time as the wave pushes you to shore. There is a great thrill in seeing how stoked the first timer becomes experiencing the sport that has captured millions of enthusiasts since the 1960’s.

In surfing, the psychological barriers can be as big as the physical and technical barriers. It takes mastery of all three to become an expert. The mechanics are important and I have tried to explain them in a narrative which may be easier to take into account what you are feeling, thinking and experiencing.

I chuckle to myself as tough marines mention they are nervous about catching a wave and getting trounced. We all learn we are no match for Mother Nature. Good technique is our best defense.

I hope you enjoy this book and feel when you are finished that you found it beneficial. Even more so, I hope it helps you become addicted to the sport and starts a lifelong relationship.

For the following services call 760-696-7149: Individual Surf lessons in Oceanside, private group and family surf lessons, Oceanside surf lessons for kids, package lessons for vacations and more in-depth learning.