Beginners Learn to Surf Real Waves
Beginners learn to surf real waves after mastering foam wave riding. The essentials of riding foam waves are a first step for the more intricate timing of real waves.
The timing for riding foam and real waves first involves positioning. On a foam wave, you get in front of the wave and start paddling easy. When it is close, you paddle hard three or four times until you are in front of the wave before putting your hands on the board
On a real wave, you can paddle parallel to where you know the waves are breaking to help momentum. When you see it begin to form, you paddle out a little bit, in a little bit, or just parallel. When it starts to arc, you have to let the wave come under the board. Then three hard paddles and you should be in the wave.
Angling for the wave is an important technique. Rather than just riding straight down the wave which can increase pearling on steep waves, you can push the board to the direction the wave is breaking before putting hands on the board to angle for the pocket.
The pop up needs to be smooth, efficient, and quick on real waves. The body should wind up just as in a foam wave with weight distributed evenly over the center line of the board with hips and shoulders facing the front of the board.
Beginners should learn to ride real waves that are only a few feet high. They can often be interspersed with foam waves or you can go to the outside on smaller days where all the surfers are lined up. Getting a wave in the line up is another topic.
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