5 Beginner Surfer Fundamentals
There are 5 beginner surfer fundamentals that launch a new surfer and allow them to practice on their own. My goal in surf lessons is to teach beginners how they can go anywhere and practice without an instructor.
Water safety is important. Beginners are vulnerable to getting hurt because they are not aware of what happens with a board and the waves. Most beginners start with an 8′ or 9′ soft top. They are excellent because they have high volume for easy use and don’t hurt as bad if they hit you. Best to keep the board behind you by dragging it backward by the leash or pointing it straight into waves.
NEVER let the board get between your body and the wave because you will get knocked down. When you fall off the board, always know where it is. If you go under water, come up with your hands over your scalp protecting your head from fins in case the board is right above you.
The next beginner surfer fundamental is getting on the board properly. I like students to hold the board with one hand on top and one underneath and in the spot when they roll over their feet are at the very back of the board. Then students put the balls of their feet on the board.
Your nose should be on the middle strip and your feet together in the back. You balance the board with your butt. The board has to be pointing straight at the beach. If you take off at an angle on foam waves, they will turn the board over.
Paddling to catch waves is about timing. Drive your arm into the water up to the elbow and pull in very short abbreviated strokes. You do not want to stretch the arm out like you are swimming; it is too slow and causes the board to change direction with each stroke. Paddle easy before the wave arrives and then at least three hard paddles until the board takes off in front of the wave.
Standing up on the board is about timing, steps, and smoothness. After the board has taken off and the foam is behind the board, put your hands on the board in a man’s push up position under the chest. I call this the rest position as you are laying on your hands. From this position, you push up evenly until your arms are fully extended like in a full push up.
It is important not to stall in this position and be thinking about what you are going to do. Lying down and standing up are the only stable positions and everything in between is unstable. As soon as you have pushed up, place one foot on the board a foot or so from the back of the board, flat on the board and perpendicular to the two rails of the board.
Then you stand up on this foot raising your hands up in the air and keeping your shoulders and hips facing forward toward the beach. Now your front leg has no weight on it and you can drive it to the middle of the board and set it across the center line.
You want your weight equal on your front and back legs. You do not want your nose to be over your front foot in a leaning forward posture. Your feet create a nice platform and are shoulder width or a few feet apart. Your knees are flexed so that you can ride the board once you are up.
The beginner surfer’s first objective is to ride the board straight to the beach on a foam wave without falling off. If the posture on the board is right, the board will go straight and the surfer doesn’t have to do any work.
See this video which is my dry land and in water demonstration for beginners.
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