2 Ways to Get into the Surfing Pocket
Getting into the Pocket of a Real Wave
Getting into the Pocket
When I teach new surfers in Oceanside Surf Lessons USA, we begin riding foam waves straight to the beach. The most important aspect is learning to pop up and ride balanced on the board. The board is designed to go straight when you are in the right posture and then you can learn to carve.
There are two ways to get into the pocket of a real wave where the real surfing is accomplished. If waves are not too steep, you point your board toward the pocket while catching the wave. This is often called angling for a wave.
If the wave is steep, you have to ride down the face and then bottom turn into the pocket. A bottom turn is accomplished by pressuring the toes in the direction of the turn and rotating the upper body in the same direction.
When You Learn How To Surf
The first techniques learned in beginning surfing are balance on the board while paddling, catching foam waves, and standing up on the board.
The real surfing begins with riding real waves and the most important technique for short boards is accelerating. This increases the speed of the board to stay ahead of the lip, do maneuvers, and to reverse direction back to the power. Acclerating is the first principal of riding the pocket on a short board.
This is accomplished by pushing the front foot on the nose up and down the face so that the board weights and unweights. Once speed is attained, the board will stay ahead of the falling lip and is set up for a maneuver.
Long boarders like to just drive the pocket by getting in the right spot on the board to maintain speed. Short boarders accelerate and then after three pumps can do a cut back or ride up the face. Once the pocket runs out of power, you can cut back to the lip to regain power or turn toward the beach and pump until the wave reforms into another wave.
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For Oceanside surf lessons, see the Home Page
This is a great tutorial on catching real waves https://youtu.be/N7KopjbzxjE