The Transition from Surfing Foam Waves to Real Waves arrives after mastering the fundamentals. Surfing is more technical than everyone expects and if techniques are not learned correctly, advancing is difficult.
A foam wave, especially on sand bar beaches like Oceanside, roll in from the real wave breaking. Many times it reforms and creates a smaller real wave mixed in with foam waves. The beginner can start by standing in waist deep water waiting for the right foam wave. He wants the foam in a straight line and big enough to push the board.
Catching the Foam Wave
The surfer rolls over on the board when the foam wave is about 20′ away and paddles easy. When the wave is close, he paddles hard and after the wave hits the board he gives it a few good paddles to get the tail of the board out of the foam. Then he can put his hands on the board in a man’s push up position. I like to put my hands close to my waist to help get my midsection off the board on a push.
The beginner pushes and places one foot flat on the board under his butt so he can stand on it. As he rises, he must lift his hands from the board to make way for the other foot to move to the nose. The final stance should have the hands in front with the hips and shoulders square like pushing a tall box with both hands. Feet are shoulder width apart and weigh is equal on front and back leg.
Progressing to the Small Real Wave
To progress, the surfer paddles through the foam wave toward the outside and turns around to catch a bigger foam wave. The turn is executed with pushing water under board with one hand and still stroking long with the other board. I like to turn 90 degrees, which I do in two strong strokes, and wait for the wave and then turn the other 90 degrees toward shore to catch the wave.
To transition to small real waves, the surfer can make that 90 degree turn and keep paddling so he is parallel to where the wave is breaking and so he can watch what is happening. The real wave breaks in a few seconds so the surfer has to be in position. The small real waves are often more easily caught on a soft top by aiming for the pocket after the foam starts coming over the lip. The surfer is pointed at 45 degrees toward the beach and lets the pocket roll under the surfboard.
Catching Bigger Real Waves
To catch bigger waves, the surfer lets the wave roll under the surfboard. As the tail rises, the surfer paddles hard a few times and then pops up. If the waves are steep as on sand bar beaches, the surfer may want to point the board toward the pocket and pop up so the board doesn’t pearl on the face. As waves get bigger ,the surfer can paddle down the face and do a bottom turn into the pocket.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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