Pop Ups and Wave Catching on Short Boards is what many beginners strive for after their first lessons. The short board is the star in surf films and surfers on short boards is what attracts many new beginners.
The progress to catching real waves needs to be patient and exacting. Learning the basic pop up techniques on foam waves will be the same as on real waves, but they will most likely be smoother and quicker after so much progress.
Catching Real Waves
The surfer positions his board to catch the real wave as it comes under the board and arcs. Watching film is a great way to visualize this step. As the wave arcs above the surfer’s head, he paddles hard three times. Many surfers kick as well to improve the acceleration. The bigger the wave, the faster it is moving. As the nose points down and the wave is pushing, the surfer does his pop up.
Many surfers pop up with both feet at the same time. This requires a push or pop and then the front foot slides under the chest and lands perfectly in the middle of the board near the nose. The shoulders and hips are square facing the nose. Many surfers also place one foot at a time, but so quickly it looks like they are both at the same time. Here, the surfer puts a back foot on the board under his butt and as he lifts his hands to stand, he moves his front foot to the board.
The surfer can catch the wave with three techniques. First he just rides down the face. Conditions will dictate which method is best. A second process is to catch the wave and push the nose toward the pocket before the pop up. This is favored if the waves are closing out quickly and the surfer wants to get ahead of the lip in the pocket.
A third process for catching waves is to catch them at the corners away from the apex. This is good for beginners and when waves are too difficult at the apex. The surfer paddles toward the advancing edge or corner of the pocket. He is facing toward the beach at a 45 degree angle lets the wave roll under the board. He pops up and continues to ride at that same angle. No need on this one to bottom turn into the pocket.
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