Surfing Better with the Short Board


When I teach Oceanside Surf Lessons, new students begin on an 8′ soft top and catch foam waves. A key technique is the pop up going from prone to a standing position. On a foam wave, once you are in front of the SurfPictures6.28-0211-300x225wave, there is a lot of time and it can  be smooth and relaxed.

Short boarders face a different scenario on many beaches where the waves are steeper and often close off. I witness a difference between those who have made the commitment to get in front of the waves and those who are paddling over the top.

On many beaches the waves up to 4 foot will take longer to break until they hit the shallow bottom and then they can break rather steep. The secret to riding more waves is to get in front of the wave to where it is forming more steeply, take a few strokes and pop up fast. The board will take care of the wave.

The first impression a surfer has when taking off on a steep wave is that the surf board will pearl. I haven’t pearled in a long time, but it often looks like it will. Secondly, when you are up fast, the board will move down the line quickly and help you get in front of the falling lip.

The final phase is to get some acceleration going by moving the nose up and down the pocket also called unweighting. There are lots of techniques to accelerate and if you watch surfers you will see each one has their own style. You can combine a nice routine of accelerating, cutting back, pumping toward shore to stay with the wave and ripping the tail over the lip of the wave.

Once you have the quick pop up and can get in front of the lip, you have the rest of your life to work on your maneuvers and tricks.


Surf Instructions  Beginner to Advanced E Book   $5.95   

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Learning the Physical, Technical and Psychological stepping stones to becoming an Advanced Surfer

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