Courage Plays a Big Role in Surfing


When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside, we start out with foam waves, but even then people are tremulous about standing up. It seems the whole idea is to stand up and ride, but the ocean is intimidating and as soon as you feel BeachBeginClass3.22 008the power, you begin a venture with courage.

Sometimes I have to talk students into a commitment to stand up on the board. They are moving fast in the wave and standing up seems very unstable. Falling off the board even from foam waves delivers quite a toss and sensation people are not used to.

Riding real waves can create some real smacks as you fall off a four foot wave and hit the water. Sometimes you say this is supposed to be water even if it feels like the sidewalk. As a student moves from smaller to bigger waves the danger seems more imminent. Although few people get hurt, you have to take a lot of punches.

When the waves are five to six foot, they are moving fast and the water is very heavy. Now you are traveling with a thousand pounds of water. When a big wave moving at ten plus miles per hour and several hundred pounds of water start rolling you around under the surface, you know who is boss.

None the less, you have to have the courage to move into the vulnerable position of catching the wave and possibly not knowing the outcome. When you are more advanced, you rarely take bad falls, but it takes a lot of bad falls to get there and there is no short cut or extra points because you are a nice person.

A lot of people decide right away they are not willing to make the sacrifices to get better. Good surfers surrender from the beginning and say “whatever it takes.”


Surf Instructions  Beginner to Advanced E Book   $5.95   

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Illustrated 80 page E Book 

by Mark Kaplan, Surf Instructor

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Learning the Physical, Technical and Psychological stepping stones to becoming an Advanced Surfer

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